Saturday, October 31, 2020

Better Bacon

We all know that the love people have for bacon borders on obsession. But what is the best way to prepare the salt-cured pork belly everyone craves? Inspired by a feature on Cooking for Engineers, I tested several different cooking methods and compared the results. As it was on sale at the time, I used Schneiders Classic Cut brand bacon for the tests. Each piece of bacon was rated out of five, with five being excellent, and a score of one being inedible. Assisting me with the tasting part of the experiment were the other bacon eaters in the house, my wife Dawn Xanklin, and our son, a fourth-grade bacon connoisseur.

Baked on Aluminum Foil
I placed enough aluminium foil to line a baking sheet, then I put the bacon on top, and baked it at 205°C until it was done to my liking, flipping the bacon occasionally.


Cooking Time: 17 minutes + 17 minutes for oven to reach temperature = 34 minutes
Scores: Franklin on Food: 5 DXanklin: 4 Kid Franklin: 5

Cast Iron Skillet
For this I placed the bacon in a cold cast iron skillet and cooked it at medium heat, flipping the bacon occasionally until it looked good enough to eat.


Cooking Time: 11 minutes
Scores: Franklin on Food: 4 DXanklin: 4 Kid Franklin: 4

Grilled
I put the three strips on some aluminium foil and placed it over two burners on a BBQ at high setting.


Cooking Time: 17 minutes
Scores: Franklin on Food: 4 DXanklin: 5 Kid Franklin: 5

Instant Pot
The bacon was made to fit in a single layer in the Instant Pot cooking chamber. Then I hit the Saute button and cooked everything for three minutes intervals, flipping the bacon before hitting the button again.



Cooking Time: 9 minutes
Scores: Franklin on Food: 3.5 DXanklin: 4 Kid Franklin: 5

Microwave
I took three slices of bacon and placed them on three paper towels on a dinner plate, which I then I put into my microwave oven.


Cooking Time: 3 minutes on high, then cooked 30 seconds until it was done to my liking = 4.5 minutes
Scores: Franklin on Food: 3 DXanklin: 3 Kid Franklin: 5

Water in Skillet
After arranging the bacon in a cold metal frying pan, I added just enough water to cover everything. I then cooked it over high heat until the water boiled, lowered the heat to medium until the water evaporated, and then continued cooking the bacon over medium-low heat until it was ready.

Scores: Franklin on Food: 5 DXanklin: 5 Kid Franklin: 5
Cooking Time: 14 minutes

Notes and Observations:
The overall favourite was the one I was the most skeptical about, the water in the skillet method. It's the method the food scientists over at America's Test Kitchen recommend, as they theorize that the water keeps the cooking temperature low and gentle, allowing the bacon to retain its moisture and stay tender. This gave the bacon a nice ratio of crispiness and chewiness. While it does let the bacon cook in its own fat, the oven is not the most efficient way to cook a small amount of bacon, and it takes the longest of the methods tried. It's much better for larger amounts. Instant Pot bacon isn't an option if you don't have the all-in-one wonder device and barbeque grilled bacon may not be an option if you don't have the equipment or the desire to cook outside. It doesn't get more old school than cooking bacon in a cast oven pan, and while you can't beat the speed of a microwave, it did produce the least liked bacon of the tests. To see which way works best for your bacon needs, you will have to try each method on your own. If you do decide to try this experiment, please note that cooking this much bacon at one time will make the area around your kitchen smell amazing.

Saturday, October 3, 2020

Carpe Diem Eating: The Travis Scott Meal

During a recent visit to the drive-through at McDonald's, I asked my son if he wanted his usual order of a cheeseburger, medium fries, and a medium cola. Instead, he asked for a Travis Scott meal. I assumed he meant that he wanted to hear Travis Scott on the radio, and ordered what he usually eats. While he did eat his lunch, my son was annoyed that it wasn't what he asked for and bemoaned that his father wasn't as knowledgeable and cool as his 9-year-old self. I knew that the restaurant still associated with a clown as its mascot, rebranding be damned, didn't name their sandwiches after people like a New York deli would. Until that moment, I only knew Travis Scott as the rapper who lip-synced his hit "Sicko Mode" during an awful Superbowl halftime show. But Kylie Jenner's baby daddy is also a big deal in the fast-food world. Last month, Scott teamed with McDonald's to market the way he levels up his order of the Quarter Pounder with Cheese, and the Cactus Jack meal was born for a limited time offer. What does this combo have to do with Mick Foley's hardcore wrestling persona? Who the hell knows, but it apparently led to some McDonald's locations running out of ingredients for this meal. This promotion somehow slipped under my radar, but it's still possible to have this celebrity-endorsed meal if you want to appear with it even when it sounds strange and weird. Who knows, maybe it can be a secret menu item if enough people ask for it.

THE TRAVIS SCOTT / CACTUS JACK MEAL
  • Order a Quarter Pounder with Cheese, and ask for it to be topped with bacon and lettuce (I forgot that you can add toppings to hamburgers now).
  • Ask for BBQ sauce for your French fries instead of ketchup (Travis likes the tanginess).
  • To properly wash down a meal of this magnitude, order a Sprite with extra ice. 
    • Bonus cool points if you substitute the Sprite for "Blueberry Faygo", the title of Scott contemporary Lil Mosey's biggest hit. As you can't get Faygo of any flavour at McDonald's, head to the nearest Dollar King in your area for a bottle.

Thursday, August 20, 2020

Foods That Unsettle Conservatives

To say the announcement of Kamala Harris as Joe Biden's choice for vice president caused a stir across the border is an understatement. Her biggest critics responded in predictable ways, with FOXNews saying she was both too radical and not radical enough, and the Orange Goblin reviving the birther nonsense that didn't work against Obama. But I don't think anyone predicted the current vice president's take on his potential successor. Speaking at an event called “Farmers & Ranchers For Trump” Mike Pence vowed to make America great again by protecting America’s red meat from the Democrats. After learning Harris was in favour of "changing dietary guidelines and would encourage moderation to promote healthy eating, revise the food pyramid, and protect the environment", Pence responded with this:
"Well I've got some red meat for you - we're not going to let Joe Biden and Kamala Harris cut America's meat!"
You got to hand it to Pence's speechwriter, you have to know your audience if you want to reach them, and telling a room full of beef producers their livelihood will be threatened if Trump isn't reelected is like throwing chum in shark-infested waters. I can also see how the threat of losing access to well-done steaks with ketchup would shake the MAGA crowd to their no-soy-or-tofu-eating core. Anyone else should know that any changes to the USDA food guide aren't mandated by law, they're just healthy suggestions. If you want to stuff every orifice in your body with meat, that's your God-given right as an American or a Canadian. This isn't the first time a politician has used the food we eat to stoke fear and discontent into people, and with the threat of an election in this country looming, I'm sure it won't be the last. So if "owning the conservatives" is a thing for you (or if you're looking for some new ways to eat better), here are some recipes that are red meat-free that are sure to drive Pence crazier than his hydroxychloroquine-hyping boss. Packed full of nutrients and flavour, these recipes are from the Wired food issue from August 2016 back when Pence was starting his own vice-presidential aspirations.

Remember to buy local produce whenever possible.

THE BEAUTIFIER
  1. Chop one head of broccoli into florets. Toss with grapeseed or safflower oil, some diced shallot, fresh lime juice, sambal (an Indonesian chili sauce or paste), a bit of fish sauce; season with salt and pepper
  2. Layer on the bottom of a medium-sized bowl and top with Swiss chard sautéed in garlic and avocado halves
  3. Top with chopped toasted peanuts and hazelnuts served with more lime on the side
The greens, nuts, and oils in this bowl are great sources of vitamin E, which helps the growth of your hair and nails, and has shown to lower incidences of cardiovascular diseases, cancer, and dementia.
THE HEART HELPER
  1. Pile steamed brown rice into a medium-sized bowl and top with sautéed Swiss chard or spinach, boiled mini potatoes, sliced avocado and tomatoes, and lima beans
  2. Whisk finely chopped shallots, fresh lemon juice, and olive oil together and season with salt and pepper, and drizzle it over the bowl
  3. Top with seared mackerel fillet and some chopped pistachios, sunflower seeds, and parsley sprinkled over everything
Potassium and magnesium-rich, this bowl helps reduce high blood pressure, a leading cause of heart attacks, heart failure, kidney disease, and stroke.
VISION OF HEALTH
  1. Toss chopped sweet potato, carrots and/or butternut squash with olive oil, salt and pepper, and roast at 205°C until golden-brown
  2. Wilt some spinach in a large skillet and chop, then stir it into some cooked quinoa, along with some olive oil, fresh lemon juice, chopped parsley, scallion, and salt and pepper
  3. Arrange the quinoa mixture in a medium-sized bowl and top with the roasted vegetables, a fried egg, and some chili flakes
The vitamin A in the ingredients in this bowl is key for eye and immune health. The quinoa supplies vitamin B and iron, as well as being protein-rich and gluten-free.
THE BONE BUILDER
  1. Mix some finely grated garlic into full-fat Greek yogurt, season with salt and pepper, then smear it onto the side of a medium-sized bowl and sprinkle with Aleppo pepper (also known as Halaby pepper) and orange zest
  2. Add wilted kale to the bowl, and top with a piece of seared rainbow trout, with the juice of half an orange squeezed over everything
  3. Top with flaky sea salt and a fresh egg yolk
The calcium in the kale pairs well with the vitamin D in the yogurt, egg yolk, and the trout.
THE BLOOD BOOSTER
  1. Pile warm buckwheat soba into a medium-sized bowl and top with steamed Chinese (or regular) broccoli, bok choy, baby shrimp, cooked edamame, and some spoonfuls of silken tofu
  2. Pour hot dashi broth over everything, then drizzle with some soy sauce and toasted sesame oil
  3. Squeeze lots of lime over everything and top with chopped toasted cashews and cilantro
Broccoli and bok choy are packed with vitamin C, which helps the body absorb the iron from the tofu, edamame, and shrimp. A good balance improves oxygen transport and blood health.
NO-FAIL KALE
  1. Finely chop some kale or any green leafy vegetable you have on hand (Swiss chard, spinach, collards, parsley will work) and mix with finely grated garlic, lemon zest, and lots and lots of olive oil
  2. Season with salt and pepper and toss with zucchini noodles
  3. Serve in a medium-sized bowl with watercress, chopped toasted pistachios, a squeeze of lemon, and plenty of shaved Parmesan on top 
The vitamin K from the greens and the cheese are essential for bone remodelling and blood clotting when you get cut.

Saturday, August 8, 2020

The Need To Know Classic That Is: Coq au Vin

The person who first cooked something in wine had to have known they were onto something. While this technique can be traced back to Julius Caesar's day, coq au vin (literally chicken with wine) was perfected by the French, with a recipe for poulet au vin blanc, appearing in a cookbook as far back as 1864. This dish is so perfect an example of French cooking that it's little wonder Julia Child added it to her repertoire, and best of all, it is a dish that is dead simple to make. I recently made the recipe below for an anniversary dinner, and I highly recommend it for when you want to have a special dinner but you don't want to go out to eat.

Ingredients

1.8 kg chicken, cut into eight pieces, or eight chicken parts
710 mL red wine (use Burgundy if you're a traditionalist)
450 g pearl onions, peeled
330 g mushrooms (button mushrooms are normally used)
225 g lardons
  • a lardon is a small strip or cube of fatty bacon, or pork fat. Pancetta can be used as a substitute; I used whatever bacon I had in the fridge
30 g butter
30 mL olive oil
at least 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 bouquet garni
  • a bouquet garni is a bunch of herbs tied up in cheesecloth used to season your food. Traditionally bay leaves, parsley, and thyme is used; I used what was in the "Mixed Herbs" packet I had in the cupboard
flour
salt and pepper
  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Put some flour in a large plastic zip-top bag, add the chicken, seal, and shake to cover the meat evenly. Heat the olive oil and the butter in a Dutch oven or casserole dish, and cook the chicken over high heat for five to six minutes until browned - depending on the size of your pan, this may require doing so in batches.
  2. Remove the chicken when it has finished cooking and set the meat aside somewhere to keep warm. Cook the bacon in the same pan until it is crisp. Remove the bacon from the pan, add the onions and cook them for four to five minutes until they begin to brown. Pour in the wine and stir the contents to remove anything sticking to the sides and bottom of the cooking dish.
  3. Place the chicken and the bacon back in the pot and add the garlic and the bouquet garni. Bring everything to a boil, cover, then place the dish in the centre of the oven for 75 minutes.
  4. Add the mushrooms and let everything cook for another 15 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven, take out the chicken, bacon, mushrooms, and onions, and place them in a serving dish. The bouquet garni can be thrown out.
  5. Return the cooking dish and its juices to low heat on the stove, and check to see if more salt and/or pepper is required, then bring to a rapid boil until the sauce is thick and glossy. Pour the sauce over the food and serve immediately on its own, or with crusty French bread, mashed or roasted potatoes or anything starchy to soak up the sauce.
Note: The above recipe was taken from "Cook's Bible" by Lorraine Turner, Parragon Books Ltd.

Tuesday, July 21, 2020

Dining Out Redux

If I had known how long it would be before I could sit in a restaurant again, I would have ordered something to eat.
On what was my last Friday working from an office downtown, I was in a meeting that March afternoon listening to the plans for dealing with a virus that days before wasn't considered a cause for concern. We were told those who could work from home should prepare to do so for the following week; those like myself who weren't set up for remote work (they wouldn't let me telework because I was on loan from another department) were to receive instructions on Monday about whether or not to come into the office. Heading home, I decided to stop at Bier Market on a whim; I guess subconsciously I knew it was going to a while before I would be downtown again. That week, there were fewer people than usual milling around the area of Metcalfe and O'Connor, with the lack of toilet paper and hand sanitizer being a major topic of conversation. There were a  handful of patrons scattered throughout the eating area, no 5 o'clock rush to speak of.  I sat at the bar and ordered a Lagunitas IPA while watching sports highlights. As dead as it was, I assumed business would pick up as the afternoon turned into evening. Feeling good enough to face the clusterfuck that is waiting for a bus at Blair station during rush hour, I paid my tab and went to Parliament station to go home, thinking I'd stop in again within the next few weeks. That was four months ago - and a lot has changed since then.

We have only recently begun Stage 3 of the province's reopening plan. This allows nearly all businesses in the city to reopen, including gyms, movie theatres, and bars and restaurants for indoor dining; buffet-style dining is still prohibited. Health officials have said we can "safely enjoy the loosening of restrictions" as long as we continue washing our hands, covering our faces, and physical distancing. While the efforts our government put in place to flatten the curve are working better the ones the orange goblin in the United States chose to use, every story about new cases of COVID-19 rising in parts of the U.S. that opened their restaurant doors before we did makes me wonder if the rush to Stage 3 is happening too soon. Still, my curiosity about how local eateries are handling the new dine-in protocols got the best of me, so I made my way back to the last restaurant I went to before Ottawa went on lockdown.
It was around six Sunday evening when I drove downtown. I parked close to World Exchange Plaza, the first time I’ve been near the place since March, as working downtown stopped being an option when I was sent back to my home department where I was set up to work from home. I know that during the best of times you could shoot a cannonball down Sparks and not hit anything for minutes, but it seemed unusually quiet for a summer evening. There were patios set up at some of the restaurants on the way, but no one sitting and eating. With so little foot traffic it was hard to tell if some restaurants decided to close early, or not open at all. I was beginning to think I should have called to see if Bier Market was open, and was relieved to see a table of two on the patio and two hostesses in masks standing by the entrance, with various public health or social distancing warnings on the door to the restaurant behind them. I was asked if wanted to eat outside or inside. Even though the wind was starting to pick up, I chose outside. Viruses like COVID-19 spread through droplets that come out of our bodies when we open our mouths and drop to surfaces or the ground within two metres of us, and then circulate around a room. This isn’t a problem when outside as the droplets are diluted by the atmosphere. This is why Ottawa Public Health suggests we should wear face coverings and why the prime minister suggested we should refrain from speaking moistly back in April; it’s not as stupid sounding when you know why...no, actually, it still sounds cringeworthy. Let’s move on...

I was lead to my table after it was set up at the end of the patio several metres away from the table of two already there. Once seated, I was asked for a contact number for COVID-19 track purposes. Understandable, given we’re still in a pandemic, but still offputting - privacy advocates, take note. Having scanned the menu ahead of time, I went with the Drunken' Duck Wings, and the porter my masked server recommended, the Deschutes Black Butte. Heading inside with my mask on to use the facilities, I was surprised by the social distancing in the men’s room. One person at a time, with no urinals available for use, and only one stall available for both #1 and #2. I’ll assume it’s a similar setup in the ladies’ room, and I can’t see how this isn’t an issue in either toilet when it’s busy. On my way back to my table, I noticed only a face-masked bartender standing behind the bar, with not one person sitting inside eating.
Soon my duck wings arrived with the beer. I didn’t really get any of the “bier” flavour for something that was advertised as beer-braised, and the golden BBQ sauce wasn’t as spicy as I thought it would be, which was disappointing. I did enjoy the porter, the sweet dark bitterness was a nice change from the IPAs I usually drink. While eating, a party of seven came in to celebrate a birthday, but because of the new 6 people per table rule, they had to be split into two tables across from each other. After settling up, I sat and enjoyed being outside on a patio for a bit for a little while longer, then made my way home.

Is it worth going out to eat now? Depends on how badly you want someone else to cook and serve you your food and the food you are eating. Like everything in 2020, dining out means adapting to new rules. Outdoor eating is only a viable option a short time of the year, with staff already noticing the threat of bad weather will keep people from leaving home. Being indoors at a restaurant means having your face covered in some way, and it is expected that you will have a mask on when you're not enjoying your meal. If that is an issue for anyone, they should strongly consider the take-out option. A special dinner date or night out for drinks can be done if everyone follows the protocols put in place. My trip to Bier Market did a lot to alleviate my concerns about what going out to eat in the new normal would be like, but it also reminded me that being in Stage 3 doesn't mean we're out of the woods just yet. It will take a lot of effort on everyone's part before we're back to how things used to be.

Wednesday, July 1, 2020

Legends of Canadian Pastry: The Nanaimo Bar

The Sweet Canada: Domestic stamps series
Looking for something to do this Canada Day? Celebrate by making one of most Canadian of desserts, the Nanaimo bar. The most addictive thing to come out of British Columbia other than marijuana, the no-bake dessert bar was popularized in the years following World War 2, reaching national notoriety after Expo 86. Traditionally consisting of three layers (a graham wafer crumb and shredded coconut base, custard-flavoured butter icing in the middle, and a chocolate ganache on top), the official city of Nanaimo-approved version of the pastry came to be after Joyce Hardcastle's recipe won a contest the city held. With Canada Day options limited this year, why not give this recipe a try? It will definitely add to the excitement of virtual fireworks - stay safe and happy Canada Day everyone.

Ingredients - Bottom Layer
425 g graham wafer crumbs
250 g shredded coconut
125 g unsalted butter (European style cultured if possible)
125 g finely chopped almonds
75 g cocoa
50 g sugar
1 egg, beaten
  1. Melt the first 3 ingredients in the top of a double boiler. Place on the stove over medium heat and bring the water to simmer. 
    • If you don’t have a double boiler, half-fill a saucepan with water and heat over medium heat until the water begins to simmer. Then, place a metal or glass bowl over the simmering water and proceed as directed.
  1. Add the egg and stir to cook and thicken. Remove from heat. 
  2. Stir in the crumbs, the coconut, and the nuts. Press firmly into an ungreased 2 L baking pan.
Ingredients - Second Layer
500 g icing sugar
125 g grams unsalted butter
30 g vanilla custard powder
40 mL cream
  1. Cream the butter, cream, custard powder, and icing sugar together well. Beat until light and fluffy. 
  2. Spread it over the bottom layer.
Ingredients - Third Layer
115 g semi-sweet chocolate
30 g unsalted butter
  1. Melt the chocolate and the butter over low heat. Remove it from the heat and let it cool. 
  2. Once cool, but still liquid, pour it over the second layer. Cover everything and let it chill in the refrigerator until cold.

Sunday, June 28, 2020

Adventures in BBQ: Pork Shoulder

For my birthday this year, my wife got me a compact vertical charcoal smoker/grill. I finally got a chance to try it out when I smoked a pork shoulder roast recently. Here are some observations on how it all came together:
  • Like my favourite Arlen, Texas resident, I've always used propane and propane accessories, this is the first time I've ever used a charcoal grill to cook.
  • I wasn't crazy about having to assemble my birthday present, this grill definitely has more moving parts than the box smoker I made a few years ago. The build went OK, took about a half-hour. I can't stress enough - always read and re-read the instructions when putting something together. If I hadn't, I would have put the charcoal in the ash pan instead of on one of the grills - oops.
  • This smoker uses a water pan to prevent any fat from dripping onto the coals and helps regulate the temperature by adding some humidity. Hopefully, I don't douse my coals by accident during the cook.
  • Getting a charcoal chimney to light my briquettes was a smart move on my part. 
  • According to Jaime Purvuiance's "Weber's Way To Grill", the roast needed to be cooked with indirect heat, so around lunchtime, I got my briquettes lit, spread the coals on one side of the grill, and put the pork shoulder with the rub I applied to it earlier on the other. I wish I had grabbed some wood chips when I bought the briquettes; hickory or oak seems to be good all-purpose choices.
  • It was threatening to rain all afternoon, with it spitting from the sky intermittently. Today's beer of choice: Pabst Blue Ribbon 5.9%,  a fine utility beer, one of the few cheap American beers that taste like actual beer.
  • About 30 minutes in, I noticed my temperature was dropping because I didn't use enough charcoal. Keeping this grill at the 200-250 degree sweet spot on the temperature gauge will be the constant challenge, I had no idea how much I took the ease of propane for granted.
  • Mental note, I need to buy a bucket for the ashes and something to move around the coals. A pair of heat-resistant gloves would also be nice in hindsight; no burns but why take the chance, right? 
  • You know you're on the right track when your wife and your neighbour ask where that great aroma is coming from.
  • Even though I let a 2 kg roast cook all afternoon,  I still checked to see if it was at temperature. The end result had a nice colour on it, and while the meat wasn't fall off the bone tender, it still made some damn tasty sandwiches.
  • Overall, not bad for a first attempt. With the goal of smoking a beef brisket by the start of fall, it looks like I'm going to be spending the rest of the summer getting to know my new smoker.  This is a sacrifice I'm willing to make.

    Pork shoulder

     

Festive Holiday Baking

Are you a hybrid worker being forced to attend an office potluck?  Do you need a dessert for your child's Christmas bake sale?  Feel l...