Easy to Make Ice Cream

The Canada Agriculture and Food Museum is hosted a celebration of all things ice cream. For those of you who missed this event, it is possible to make your own ice cream without having to buy a machine, or liquid nitrogen. The method uses the old school pot-freezer method, where the temperature of the ingredients is reduced by a mixture of crushed ice and salt. The ice cools the salt, and the action of the salt on the ice causes it to melt partially, absorbing latent heat and bringing the mixture to a temperature below the freezing point of water. In order to proceed, you will need two large resealable bags (4 L volume), two small resealable bags (500 mL volume), and the ingredients below. As long as they like ice cream, this is a great project to do with the kids if you run out of activities for them during the summer holidays.

Note: This recipe was taken from an online course I've taken in the past.

Ingredients
600 g ice
200 g salt (preferably coarse salt)
¼ tsp vanilla extract (or another flavour of your choice)
100 g whole milk
90 g heavy cream

(Note: this method also works with other milks - soy, almond, rice, etc. for a non-dairy version. Just replace the cream and milk.)

1. Fill a large resealable bag with the ice (the amount above or to about 1/3 full). Add the salt to the ice.
2. In a separate small zip-lock bag, add the heavy cream, milk, sugar, and extract (or other flavor). Seal it, trying to press out air to maximize contact with the ice, and seal well.
3. Place the small bag with the ice cream ingredients inside the large bag with ice. Place the entire package into a second large bag to prevent leaking.
4. Massage, or gently toss the bag around until the ice cream becomes solid. If possible, try to do this on a cold surface so the ice doesn't melt. You should use oven mitts or hand towels to handle this part, so your hands don’t get cold, thus letting you massage the ice cream better; constant mixing is key to getting a good texture.
5. Remove the small bag with ice cream from the large bag with ice. Wipe off the top of the small bag and then open it carefully.  Test the consistency with a spoon - if it seems solid and delicious, you can serve it. If your ice cream isn't solid enough before the ice melts, add more ice and salt and repeat step 4 until it’s ready.

Summertime Rum Punch

Hot summer days like the ones Ottawa has been experiencing lately require a tasty beverage to make the most of your relaxing during these lazy, hazy times. This recipe for rum punch is based on a formula used by both my Barbados-born father and a woman my wife met at the Wine and Food Show some years ago. This drink can pack quite a punch, so take the necessary precautions.

Ingredients
1 750 mL bottle of rum
240 mL citrus juice (lime or orange are good choices)
240 mL water
120 g white sugar
120 g brown sugar
nutmeg
cinnamon sticks
cloves
1 jar Maraschino cherries (optional)

"One part sour, two parts sweet; three parts strong, four parts weak."

1. Pour the citrus juice into either a large punch bowl or pitcher. Set aside.
2. In a saucepan combine the sugar, some cinnamon sticks, a few cloves, a dash of grated nutmeg, and the water. Bring everything to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Allow the syrup to cool before mixing it with the juice.
3. Add half the bottle of rum and stir until everything is mixed together. This is where you can add more rum if you want a stronger punch, or some of the juice from the Maraschino cherries if you prefer a sweeter drink.
4. Add 4 cups of ice to your bowl or pitcher to keep the drink cool, and serve the punch with ice. Add a cherry for garnish.

Infographic: How People Grill Around the World

From the good people at PersonalCreations.com, here's something to read or mention to people at the next BBQ you host or attend this summer:

The Vulgar Chef vs. Thug Kitchen

Two popular cookbooks, "The Eat Like Shit Cookbook" from the Vulgar Chef (aka Kyle Marcoux), and the Thug Kitchen's "Eat Like You Give a F*ck" both share the same gimmick - edgy profanity.  Without the attitude and the curse words sprinkled throughout each publication, there is nothing that separates these publications from all the other cookbooks already out on the market. The Vulgar Chef uses the same Mornay cheese sauce that my favourite cookbook uses for macaroni and cheese; the basic vinaigrette recipe from the Thug Kitchen is no better than the one in everyone's favourite cookbook. Does that make the recipes in these books any less appealing? Not at all. "Eat Like You Give a F*ck" has a lot of great vegetarian foods inside and depending on how long you can tolerate the hardcore shtick, it would make a great source for those times a meatless dish is required. Meat lovers and food porn fans can't get enough of Marcoux's creations, as his food mashups are inspired. He was even featured on "FrankenFood". With that in mind, here are two recipes from each of these cookbooks that caught my eye, cleaned up for the easily offended.

Thug Kitchen's Carrot Cake Cookies

Ingredients

192 g flour (whole wheat pastry or white)
64 g packed light brown sugar
58.5 g chopped walnuts
58.5 g raisins or chopped candied ginger (optional)
5 g baking powder
2.5 g salt
2.5 g ground cinnamon
2.5 g ground ginger
2 medium-sized carrots, shredded
118 mL milk (regular, almond, nondairy, whatever)
59 mL olive or grapeseed oil

1. Preheat oven to 190 ℃. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, mix the flour, brown sugar, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and ground ginger until you no longer see lumps. In a separate bowl, mix the shredded carrots, milk, and oil. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ones and stir until there are only a few dry spots. Fold in the nuts and raisins (or chopped candied ginger) and stir until there aren't any dry spots.
3. Spoon the dough onto the baking sheet for about 18 to 22 minutes, until the bottoms are golden brown.

The Vulgar Chef's Drunk as Fuck Mussels with Smokey Ass Garlic Onion Butter

Ingredients

900 - 1360 g mussels, cleaned and debearded
64 g chopped red onion
60 g fresh chopped garlic
32 g corn kernels (can or off the cob)
32 g thinly sliced fresh or pickled jalapeño
32 g chopped fresh basil
237 mL bourbon or white wine
1 chopped medium-sized tomato
butter (half a stick)
olive oil
cooked and chopped bacon
crumbled blue cheese
salt and pepper to taste

1. Run the mussels under cold water, and rinse or scrub any debris on the shell. Yank the beard (the thin, sticky membranes hanging out of the shell) out. If you spot any gaping mussels, check for signs of life by picking them and squeezing them a few times or knocking them with another mussel. The mussel should slowly close itself back up. If it doesn't, toss it in the trash. Soak the remaining mussels in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes.
2. Heat 14g of butter and 14 g of olive oil in a large pot at medium heat. Add the garlic, jalapeño, basil, onion and let cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Toss in the mussels and give everything a good stirring. Throw in the bourbon, tomato, and corn and cook until the mussels open up.
3. Melt the remaining butter. Once the mussels open up, throw in butter and give everything one final mix. Serve in a bowl, and top with the blue cheese and the bacon.

The Truth About Beer Can Chicken

The Victoria Day weekend is usually when the first big BBQ of the year happens. Along with hamburgers, hot dogs, planked salmon, and grilled vegetables, a popular food at these cookouts is beer can chicken. Perched on your favourite can of beer, and covered with an herb rub, the chicken is cooked on the grill, giving it a nice roast on the outside, with the inside bathed by the steam of the beer, keeping the meat moist. Or so we are told. Not only are there better ways to cook a chicken on the grill, the entire concept of beer can chicken is little more than a waste of beer. And nobody wants to do that on a long weekend.

To be fair, there is a reason people love the taste of beer can chicken, it does a lot of things right. The chicken is exposed to convection heat so it can crisp the skin on all sides, and because the legs aren't tied together, the dark meat can be exposed to more heat and finish a bit hotter than the thicker breasts. But the cooking method used leaves a lot to be desired. The can prevents the chicken from cooking on the inside. With a metal can shoved up its butt, warm air cannot enter the cavity of the chicken from below, and only a small amount can enter from above through the neck cavity. All the heat must enter the meat from the outside. Because meat doesn't heat evenly, it progresses inward from the part in contact with air, making the outer parts warmer than the inner parts. By the time the meat nearest the cavity hits 74°C, the outer layers are in the 82 to 88°C range. That may darken and crisp the skin a bit more, but it makes the outer layers drier.

And contrary to what the recipe being used says, the beer doesn't add moisture or flavour to the chicken. Because beer is about 90% flavorless water, and 5% flavorless alcohol, all the flavour compounds are at most 3.5% of the weight. In a 355 mL can of beer, that's about 1 teaspoon of stuff with flavour; even if you add herbs and spices to the beer, their flavour compounds don't dissolve in water. Finally, there are the safety factors. If you forget to open the can, it can explode; hot fat from the drip pan may burn you; the drip pan might catch on fire, burning the bird; removing the bird from the can is a pain, because the can usually sticks to the chicken during cooking; the ink on the outside of the beer can (and the widget in that can of Guinness) probably isn't food grade and may seep into your food. There's enough here to make you reconsider even lighting your grill, but if you're like me, you're still going to make and eat beer can chicken. Because you like cooking it this way, and you like how it tastes when you do so. Sometime in the future, I'll try grilling a butterflied chicken (removing the backbone, flattening it, cooking it skin up on the indirect side, and then flipping it skin down on the direct side for a few minutes), or adding a rotisserie attachment to my BBQ. Until then, here's the recipe I use for beer can chicken:

Ingredients

1 1.81 kg. whole fryer
1 355 mL can of beer
240 g butter
30 g. garlic salt
30 g. paprika
salt and pepper

1. Preheat your BBQ for low heat.
2. In a small pot on the stove, melt the butter. Add the garlic salt, the paprika, and salt and pepper, to taste. Mix together, and let simmer at low heat.
3. Open the beer and drink half of it. Check to see if the neck and giblets have been removed from the cavity of the chicken, remove them if you find them. Baste the chicken with the melted seasoned butter. Either pour the remaining butter in the beer can or save it for further basting as it cooks; the choice is yours.
4. Position the chicken in the way your beer can apparatus recommends you to; if push comes to shove, lower the chicken on to the open can, so that the chicken is sitting upright, with the can in its cavity, and place the chicken on the grill, using the legs and beer can as a tripod to support the chicken on the grill and keep it stable. Cover the grill and let the meat cook for about 45 minutes.
5. Check the chicken every 15 minutes or so, until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 74° C.
6. Let the chicken rest for 10 minutes. Carefully lift the chicken off of the can. If it gets stuck, lay the chicken on its side, and pull out the can with tongs.

Science and Cooking: From Haute Cuisine to Soft Matter Science - Fermentation

As I posted way back when, I enrolled in an on-line course about the relationship between science and cooking. Here's what went on during Week 10.

• The star power is upped this week with guest lecturers Wylie Dufresne of wd~50 and David Chang of Momofuku making appearances. Ted Russin of The Culinary Institute of America also makes an appearance. 
• Harold McGee informs us that food fermentations are the work of living microbes; they're essentially invisibly small cooks that change foods for the better.
• Foods that owe their popularity to fermentation include dry cured sausages, pickles, breads, the vinegar in vinaigrette, cheeses, chocolates, wine and beer and ciders and the distilled beverages made from them. These are all thanks to bacteria and fungi like Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Leuconostoc mesenteroides.
• The most common food fermentations develop spontaneously. They're spontaneous because the microbes that are responsible are all over the place, in the air and in the soil and on surfaces of everything. And they thrive on the sugars in nutrient-rich materials like plant tissues and animal secretions like milk. 
• The second big group of food fermentations is produced by yeasts, usually Saccharomyces cerevisiae, but also others. They produce alcohols and carbon dioxide from fruit juices and other liquids that are rich in sugars. 
• There's a third group of fermentations is based on an Asian method for fermenting starchy foods, like the seeds of grains and legumes. Yeasts and lactic acid bacteria can't deal with starch directly. Sometime before the second century BC, Chinese brewers domesticated a species of mold, a kind of Aspergillus, which prepares starchy foods for the yeasts and the lactic acid bacteria by converting the starch into fermentable sugars. At the same time that it does that, the mold generates its own distinctive aromas. With the help of this Aspergillus, called koji in Japan, sake and other alcohols are made from rice in Asia. It's also how soy and tamari sauces and miso pastes are made. 
• We are told that the fermentation reactions in yeast, or in bacteria, are due to enzymes. An enzyme is a protein that is a type of catalyst; a catalyst is a molecule that increases the speed of a favourable reaction either by helping to break bonds, or by helping to make bonds form, without being used up.
• An example of a catalyst is baking soda or lye, which speeds up Maillard reactions that contribute to browning and flavour. 
• As magical as catalysts appear, they cannot make unfavorable reactions become favorable. 
• For more on fermentation, here's David Chang and one of his minions:
• In terms of the bond breaking, enzymes do this by either rearranging the molecule, or by affecting the atoms in the molecules in some way. In terms of making bonds form, enzymes do this by bonding to two molecules, or bringing them closer in proximity. The bond can then form more easily, because the molecules are positioned in a way that makes the bond happen more easily. Enzymes need to be very specially designed to fit the particular molecules they work on, so for each type of chemical reaction that an enzyme catalyzes, it is designed to help that reaction.
• The enzymes bromelain and papain are enzymes from pineapple and papaya. Because these are often found in meat tenderizers, they are used a lot in recipes because they break down the proteins in meats, making it tenderer.
• The browning of fruit or vegetables is also due to enzymes. Biting or cutting releases enzymes in special compartments of the cell, and they react with other compounds in the fruit or vegetable. 
• Thanks to one of Dufresne and Russin's collaborations, we can now glue one piece of meat or one protein to another, thanks to meat glue, an enzyme also known as transglutaminase.

In honour of the Hamburglar

At the beginning of February of this year, the chances of the Ottawa Senators making the playoffs were dead in the water. With their starting and backup goalies out with injuries, the team was forced to rely on an unknown call-up from the farm team. Fast forward to today - the Senators are playing their best hockey in months, and are playing the Montreal Canadiens in the first round of the playoffs. This is in part due to the play of Ottawa's newest hockey hero, Andrew "Hamburglar" Hammond. In honour of his success, I thought it would be as good a time as any to celebrate the food he got his nickname from, the hamburger.

There are almost as many claims to the origin of the hamburger as they are toppings for a burger, and meats used to make the patty. As it turns out, people have been enjoying ground meat placed inside a sliced bun since the late 1800s. Whether the patty is thin or thick, square or round, you can get a hamburger pretty much anywhere. Burger purists will insist that a hamburger should only be ground beef and seasoned with salt and pepper. These people should be ignored, as a tasty burger can contain binders like eggs or breadcrumbs; be seasoned with onions, soy sauce, Thousand Island dressing, or Worcestershire sauce; and be made with ingredients such as ground lamb, bison, and salmon; or meat substitutes like tofu, or textured vegetable protein. Below is the recipe I use when I'm in the mood for some hamburgers - try and resist throwing your burger on the ice as part of a victory celebration. Go Sens Go!

Ingredients

570g ground beef (don't use lean ground beef, burgers need fat for flavour and moistness)
1 egg
breadcrumbs
onion soup mix
Worcestershire sauce
ketchup
salt and pepper

1. Combine in a bowl the ground beef with the egg, the contents of the onion soup package, a dusting of breadcrumbs, a few shakes from the Worcestershire bottle, and a few shakes/squirts from the ketchup bottle. Mix everything together with your hands. Add more breadcrumbs if you think your mixture needs it.
2. Form the meat into patties, and sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper.
3. Whether you're cooking the burger using a grill, or pan-frying them, flip it only once. You're looking at about 3 minutes per side for rare, 4 minutes for medium, or 5 minutes for well-done.
4. Put the burger in either a bun (or in between some toast for a patty melt), and top with your choice of condiments, vegetables, and toppings.