The Need To Know Classic That Is: Spaghetti Bolognese

When my mother would make spaghetti for me and my dad, she would always cover the noodles with a hearty meat sauce topped with cheese. I didn't know if she knew it at the time (I certainly didn't), but she was making spaghetti bolognese. She must have learned how from the Italians she and my father rented a room from when they lived in Toronto back in the late sixties. The type of sauce she made has more in common with the ragùs made in the Neapolitan region of southern Italy than the sauces of the northern Bolognese area it gets its name from; a true Bolognese sauce is generally served in Italy with tagliatelle ribbons, and not with spaghetti; purists will even say spaghetti bolognese is not an authentic Italian dish. Nevertheless, it is still a tasty pasta dish and while this version may not be as good as the version I grew up with, it's still a worthy addition to your recipe repertoire.

Ingredients:

1 can (794 g) crushed tomatoes
454 g ground beef
454 g ground veal
454 g spaghetti
60 g unsalted butter
45 g tomato paste
180 mL red wine
125 mL whole milk
30 mL olive oil
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
grated parmesan or cheddar cheese, to serve
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan at medium-high. Add the onion and cook for about five minutes until soft, then add the garlic and cook for two minutes more.
2. Add the beef and veal and cook, stirring, and breaking the meat up using a wooden spoon until browned. Add the tomato paste and cook for two minutes, then add the red wine. Cook until reduced for about three minutes, then stir in the milk and tomatoes. Let it cook for one hour, then season with salt and pepper. Stir in the butter until it is melted, then, using a hand blender or stand blender, purée until slightly smooth but still chunky. Keep the sauce warm.
3. Bring a large saucepan of generously salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to the directions on the package. Drain, and add to the saucepan with the sauce, or plate the spaghetti, and spoon the sauce over it. Top with either parmesan or cheddar cheese.

Table 85: The Secret Is Out

Table 85
610 Bronson Ave (NOW CLOSED)

People like getting something they think only certain people have access to. We like having secret knowledge about things, of being "in the know". This is what's appealing about hidden restaurants, and you can't get any more concealed than Table 85. I didn't know this restaurant existed despite working only five minutes away from the place; I used to regularly park next to the building it is situated in for years.  I recently met a friend of mine for lunch there, and after we exchanged greetings, we headed into the bowels of the nondescript building to eat. As we walked down the stairs, the look on his face told me how skeptical he was that we were going to an actual restaurant. He was even more uncertain when we rounded a corner and walked into a room with some communal tables, separated by an area where the cooking was done. A TV blared on the wall across from the menu on a dry-erase board; employees from the real estate office upstairs milled in and out through the dining area to get to a meeting room off to the side.  In terms of decor, it was as basic as you can get; you would think it was a pop-up restaurant that someone forgot to shut down at the end of the night. But like those guerrilla eateries, what Table 85 lacks in ambiance, they make up for with their food. I had heard a lot of good things about the fried chicken here, but it takes more time to prepare than I had for lunch, so I went with the shrimp fried rice. My friend ordered the fire seafood noodle bowl.  Both dishes came within a reasonable amount of time, allowing my friend and I a chance to chat and catch up for a bit, but once the food arrived at our table, all conversation stopped. The smell of food was spicy and pungent, and the vegetables in our respective bowls popped with brightness. The fried rice was the best I had eaten in a long time, and the shrimp and vegetables were cooked perfectly. My friend feared he wouldn't be able to handle the heat of his choice, but the fire in his fire seafood noodle was enough to open up his sinuses while still being flavourful. With its food and its location, Table 85 defines the term hidden gem - if you're a fan of Korean cuisine, seek this place out at all costs.

Foreground, shrimp fried rice, $13.99
Background, fire seafood rice, $13.99

Carpe Diem Eating: Coffee Treat Yo' Self

Coffee, the finest organic suspension ever devised.
Capt. Janeway, "Star Trek: Voyager"

Because it's been a while since I've posted something, now is as good of a time as any for another edition of Carpe Diem Eating. This is the part of my blog where the focus is on seizing the day food-wise; making the most out of the time and the food you eat, by doing something extraordinary with food combinations that shouldn't work but do; food creations that work so well, you're amazed they haven't been done before; and food creations so extravagant and extreme that you owe it to yourself to try it.

Do you enjoy going out for a leisurely cup of coffee? Have you received a gift card for a popular coffeehouse? Are you already a member of the cult of Seattle's most famous coffee franchise and want to try something different? If you answered in the affirmative to any of those questions, try these coffee hacks the next time you need a caffeine fix:

• Save on an iced latte by ordering an iced Americano with no water, then add the milk yourself from the communal pitcher. 
• Just like a martini, a shaken iced drink makes all the difference. Request that your drink is shaken because baristas won't do it if you don't ask.
• Want a cheap version of a chai latte? Ask for a  two teabags chai tea misto, half a pump of cinnamon syrup, and half a pump of vanilla syrup, with lots of foam, then sprinkle a bit of cinnamon, nutmeg, and vanilla on the foam. 
• A penny saved is a penny earned, and you can save a few of those pennies by using your own cup, no matter the drink size. You are charged for every add-on to your coffee order if you go through the drive-thru, so get your extras at no cost, and save a few more of your coins by placing your order face-to-face with the barista.
• If it's available, use coconut milk for your drink, as it can double as both a sweetener and a creamer. 
• Contrary to what you see at the counter, the tall is not the smallest available cup size. A smaller cup, the short, is available if you ask for one (an extra-large cup size, the Trenta, also exists).
• Stand out from the other muggles, and order a Hot Butterbeer Latte: ask for a whole milk steamer and add some caramel syrup, toffee nut syrup and cinnamon dolce syrup (two shots each for a tall order, three shots for a grande, and four shots for venti). Complete the drink with some whipped cream and salted caramel bits on top (or creme brulee topping if you prefer), and a shot or two of espresso for some coffee flavour.
• Get the most out of your gift cards and Starbucks Rewards points, and use them at the Starbucks at the airport, where the drinks are more expensive.
• Because it's brewed very strong, Starbucks waters down your cup of tea before serving it to you; request no water with your tea if you want more flavour in your cup. If your tea is too strong, you can ask for some water in a cup if you need to water it down.
• For the ultimate pick-me-up, ask for four shots of espresso and four pumps White Chocolate Syrup in a Grande cup filled with ice and milk. For even more of a kick, order it without the milk; they don't call this drink Liquid Cocaine for nothing.

The Cast-Iron Skillet: The Original Instant Pot

If reports of malfunctioning Instant Pot multi-cookers are making you reconsider buying the appliance, you may want to consider getting a multipurpose kitchen tool that's been around for centuries.  Cast-iron cookware has remained popular in the age of non-stick pots and pans because of their versatility, and durability.  They are sturdy enough to be used in both the oven and on the stove top, and their ability to retain heat and maintain high cooking temperatures makes them a great choice for searing or frying. Cast-iron pans are also a good option for long-cooking stews or braised dishes, and a well cared for cast-iron skillet can develop a "non-stick" surface, making it a good choice for egg dishes and baking. With so many uses, you may wonder why you haven't gone the cast-iron route already.

Contrary to popular belief, taking care of a cast-iron skillet is not as daunting as you would think for something so heavy. When you get a new cast-iron skillet, you first need to season it, even if it comes per-seasoned Seasoning is the process where a layer of animal fat or vegetable oil (such as lard, shortening, or flaxseed oil) is applied and cooked onto the cookware.  To do so, you need to scrub your cookware well in hot soapy water, and then it dry it thoroughly; for obvious reasons (rust), don't let cast-iron cookware soak in water. Spread a thin layer of melted shortening, lard, or vegetable oil over the skillet, then place it upside down on the middle rack of your oven at 260°C  (you can place some aluminum foil underneath it to catch any drips). A properly seasoned cast iron gives the pan more of a non-stick surface for cooking, protects the cookware from rusting, and prevents the food from interacting with the iron of the pan. Avoid washing cast-iron cookware with detergent or metal scouring pads, as they can scratch, damage, and remove the layers of seasoning and expose the metal. The best way to deal with any stuck-on bits of food is to clean the pan by rubbing it down with kosher salt and a kitchen or paper towel while it's still warm and then wiping it down with whatever fat or oil you seasoned it with. With as many uses as it has, cooking delicate pieces of fish is not suggested for a heavy-duty cast iron. Try not to cook a lot of tomato sauce in your skillet, as the acidity can be too harsh for a cast iron pan; avoid deglazing a cast iron pan with vinegar or wine as well.  Keep in mind as well that the cast iron takes on the flavours of whatever it's cooking.

For a food as all-purpose as the vessel it can be made in, a popular choice to make in a cast-iron skillet is cornbread. This recipe works great on its own, alongside some chili, or made into stuffing, croutons,  or breadcrumbs.

Ingredients: 
450 g coarse-grind cornmeal
30 g bacon fat, lard, or unsalted butter
9 g baking soda
6 g kosher salt
1 large egg
400 mL buttermilk
45 mL tablespoons honey
15 mL tablespoon hot sauce
1 stick unsalted butter, cut into pieces, room temperature
Generous pinch of kosher salt 

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Put a dry cast-iron skillet on a burner at low heat so it can heat up while the batter is being made. Whisk the cornmeal, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Make a well in the centre of the combined ingredients and add the egg and the buttermilk, then whisk vigorously, starting in the centre and working your way out, until the dry ingredients are incorporated and the batter is smooth. 
2. Increase the heat on the burner to medium-high and add the bacon fat/lard/butter to the skillet. Swirl everything around to ensure the bottom and sides of skillet are coated. Give the batter a good whisking once more, then pour it into the skillet and smooth out the top (batter will sputter around edges). Bake the cornbread in the oven until the edges are golden brown and the top is golden, cracked in places, and firm to the touch, about 25–30 minutes. 
3. While it bakes, vigorously whisk a stick of butter, the honey, the hot sauce, and a good pinch of salt in a medium bowl until everything is smooth. 
4. When the cornbread is done, allow it to cool in the skillet for at least 5 minutes before cutting into wedges. Serve with the hot honey butter you made in the bowl. 

NOTE: The cornbread can be stored tightly wrapped at room temperature; the butter can be covered and stored at room temperature as well.

The Need To Know Classic That Is: The Black and Tan

If you're planning to have a Guinness in honour of everyone's favourite Irish saint today, why not upgrade it and have a Black and Tan instead? A simple beer cocktail, it's made by layering a stout or any dark beer on top of a pale beer (traditionally a Harp lager). This is made possible because of the lower relative density of the Guinness. Please note that in Ireland this drink is referred to as a half and half, due to the association of black and tan to the British paramilitary, so if your proud Irish friends are giving you the stinkeye at some point today, it may be for calling loudly for more Black and Tans, so head's up. At any rate, always drink responsibly. Don't drink and drive.

Ingredients

1 bottle or can of your favourite pale ale or lager
1 bottle or can of Guinness or your favourite stout

1. Slowly pour half the pale beer into a tall beer glass.
2. Place a large tablespoon, dome side up, two or three centimetres or so above the beer in the glass, with the tip of the spoon pointed slightly downhill. Slowly pour half the darker beer over the tablespoon, so that it gently pours down the side of the glass in a thick trickle.
   
   Allow the drink to stand for a few moments until two distinct layers of beer form.

Grits Redemption

Bag of grits

I don't get the hype about grits. I was curious about them ever since I saw Luis and David eating bowls of them on "Sesame Street" decades ago. When I finally had the opportunity to try grits,  I was underwhelmed both times. The first time was in a greasy spoon near a youth hostel I was staying in when I was in Miami for the 2000 New Year's celebrations; the other time was ten years later at a Denny's in Las Vegas after I went to a gun range. Both times I remember the experience as being similar to eating a side order of flavourless phlegm. How can that stuff be something both foodies and chefs rave about? I must be missing something. So to satisfy my curiosity, and in honour of Black History Month, I'm willing to give grits another chance. It's time to take things into my own hands and see if I can make a better version of this soul food classic than the poor examples I've received.

As part of my grits redemption, I started by finding out what the heck exactly are grits, other than something black people apparently love to eat. Grits is corn ground into a coarse meal and then boiled, and can be used to make cereals, snacks, and beer. As beloved as they are in the American southern states, grits are hard to find in this part of the Great White North. I heard Chef LeRoy of Detroit Soul Food fame gets his grits from Herb and Spice, but were are out of stock when I went, so I got mine from Little Latin America. And while I did make something that tasted better than my first two samplings, I'm still not sure what the big deal with grits is. If you 're looking for something different for breakfast that's savoury and filling, grits are the way to go, but as a comfort food, I guess this is one that you had to grow up on to fully appreciate.

Ingredients:

145 g white grits (not instant, you're looking for something that looks similar to unpopped popcorn)
90 g cheddar, coarsely grated
75 g torn collard greens leaves (the original recipe uses Swiss chard, I made the substitution just because)
15 g tablespoons unsalted butter
7 mL Sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
8 slices of bacon, coarsely chopped
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 Fresno or another red chile, thinly sliced into rings
1 shallot, finely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt

1. Fill a medium-sized saucepan halfway with water, add a couple pinches of salt, and bring it to a boil. Whisking constantly, gradually pour in the grits. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the saucepan, and let the grits cook, whisking occasionally and scraping the bottom of the saucepan to prevent your grits from sticking, until they are tender, thick, and creamy,  depending on coarseness. You may need to add more water in case it all boils off.
2. Cook the bacon in a medium skillet over medium-low heat, stirring often, until it's crisp. Transfer the bacon to a small plate with a slotted spoon. Combine the chiles and the vinegar in another small bowl, and set aside.
3. Pour off some of the fat from skillet, and cook the shallots, stirring often for about three minutes, until they are softened. Add the greens in batches, letting them wilt slightly before adding more, and cook, tossing, until everything is completely wilted. Remove the greens from heat and season them with salt, pepper, and some chile-soaking vinegar.
4. Bring 750 mL of water to a gentle simmer in a medium saucepan. Crack an egg into a small bowl, then gently slide the egg into the water. Repeat with the remaining eggs, waiting about 30 seconds until whites are opaque before adding the next one. Poach the eggs for aboutthree3 minutes until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to paper towels and set them aside.
5. Remove the grits from the heat and season with salt and lots of pepper. Add butter, then gradually add the cheese, whisking until everything is melted and combined; thin the mixture with a bit more water if it is too thick for your liking. Divide the grits among bowls, and top with the greens, the poached eggs, bacon, and chiles. Season the eggs with salt and pepper.

Superbowl Jambalaya

With everyone and their bookie cooking up a pot of chili for the big game on Sunday, stand out from the crowd by making the spicy dish New Orleans Saints fans comforted themselves with after their team missed their shot to go to the Superbowl this year. Native to the southern Louisiana region of the United States, jambalaya offers a mixture of rice with a blend of seasoned meat and vegetables, but with Spanish, French, and Caribbean influences. Like chili, jambalaya can be satisfying if it's made with tomatoes (Creole style) or without (Cajun style).  So for those of you who are actually interested in the game, I wish good luck to all the Eagles' fans out there, and all the bad things to happen to those who cheer for the Evil Empire from New England.*

Ingredients:

910 g boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized pieces
455 g smoked sausage, cut into bite-sized pieces (I went with the Chorizo and caramelized onion and pepper varieties from Seed to Sausage)
15 g Old Bay seasoning
5 g dried oregano
710 mL chicken broth
15 mL canola oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 bay leaves
2 cans diced tomatoes (fire-roasted if available)
Sliced scallions (optional)
1 large white onion, chopped
1 large green bell pepper, chopped
1 cup celery, chopped

• (So prevalent are the last three ingredients in Louisiana cooking they are referred to as the holy trinity of Cajun/Creole cooking)

1. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in either a Dutch oven or a large pot. Add the chicken and the sausage, and cook, stirring constantly, for about 8 to 10 minutes or until the meat is browned on all sides. Remove everything from the pot with a slotted spoon, and place it in a bowl lined with paper towels to soak up any excess oil.
2. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, bay leaves, Old Bay, thyme, and oregano to the pot of hot drippings and cook over medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes until vegetables are tender. Stir in the rice, and let it cook for about 3 minutes. 
3. Stir in the chicken broth, tomatoes, and the meats. Bring everything to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until rice is tender (good with however long the instruction that came with the rice says you should cook it). Garnish with sliced scallions, if desired.
   
   This recipe yields a lot, so either have a lot of hearty eaters on hand or prepare for leftovers.

Superbowl Jambalaya

^*I'm a New York Jets fan, by law, I am allowed to be this bitter about the most dominant team of a generation.