Grits Redemption

Bag of grits

I don't get the hype about grits. I was curious about them ever since I saw Luis and David eating bowls of them on "Sesame Street" decades ago. When I finally had the opportunity to try grits,  I was underwhelmed both times. The first time was in a greasy spoon near a youth hostel I was staying in when I was in Miami for the 2000 New Year's celebrations; the other time was ten years later at a Denny's in Las Vegas after I went to a gun range. Both times I remember the experience as being similar to eating a side order of flavourless phlegm. How can that stuff be something both foodies and chefs rave about? I must be missing something. So to satisfy my curiosity, and in honour of Black History Month, I'm willing to give grits another chance. It's time to take things into my own hands and see if I can make a better version of this soul food classic than the poor examples I've received.

As part of my grits redemption, I started by finding out what the heck exactly are grits, other than something black people apparently love to eat. Grits is corn ground into a coarse meal and then boiled, and can be used to make cereals, snacks, and beer. As beloved as they are in the American southern states, grits are hard to find in this part of the Great White North. I heard Chef LeRoy of Detroit Soul Food fame gets his grits from Herb and Spice, but were are out of stock when I went, so I got mine from Little Latin America. And while I did make something that tasted better than my first two samplings, I'm still not sure what the big deal with grits is. If you 're looking for something different for breakfast that's savoury and filling, grits are the way to go, but as a comfort food, I guess this is one that you had to grow up on to fully appreciate.

Ingredients:

145 g white grits (not instant, you're looking for something that looks similar to unpopped popcorn)
90 g cheddar, coarsely grated
75 g torn collard greens leaves (the original recipe uses Swiss chard, I made the substitution just because)
15 g tablespoons unsalted butter
7 mL Sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
8 slices of bacon, coarsely chopped
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 Fresno or another red chile, thinly sliced into rings
1 shallot, finely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt

1. Fill a medium-sized saucepan halfway with water, add a couple pinches of salt, and bring it to a boil. Whisking constantly, gradually pour in the grits. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the saucepan, and let the grits cook, whisking occasionally and scraping the bottom of the saucepan to prevent your grits from sticking, until they are tender, thick, and creamy,  depending on coarseness. You may need to add more water in case it all boils off.
2. Cook the bacon in a medium skillet over medium-low heat, stirring often, until it's crisp. Transfer the bacon to a small plate with a slotted spoon. Combine the chiles and the vinegar in another small bowl, and set aside.
3. Pour off some of the fat from skillet, and cook the shallots, stirring often for about three minutes, until they are softened. Add the greens in batches, letting them wilt slightly before adding more, and cook, tossing, until everything is completely wilted. Remove the greens from heat and season them with salt, pepper, and some chile-soaking vinegar.
4. Bring 750 mL of water to a gentle simmer in a medium saucepan. Crack an egg into a small bowl, then gently slide the egg into the water. Repeat with the remaining eggs, waiting about 30 seconds until whites are opaque before adding the next one. Poach the eggs for aboutthree3 minutes until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to paper towels and set them aside.
5. Remove the grits from the heat and season with salt and lots of pepper. Add butter, then gradually add the cheese, whisking until everything is melted and combined; thin the mixture with a bit more water if it is too thick for your liking. Divide the grits among bowls, and top with the greens, the poached eggs, bacon, and chiles. Season the eggs with salt and pepper.