What’s in Season: Mushroom Confit

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you, or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. This month's fresh ingredient is everyone's favourite fungus, the mushroom.

Available year-round, mushrooms are a good source of vitamin D and are one of the more versatile ingredients around. A great way to use them is in a confit, a preservation method that slow-poaches the mushrooms in oil, intensifying their flavour. Then they can be added to omelets; macaroni and cheese; used as pizza toppings; tucked under the skin of a roast chicken, or anywhere else you can think of that needs an umami boost.

Ingredients:

680 g mushrooms, all the same type or assorted

NOTE: Unless you are an experienced mycologist, DO NOT USE ANY MUSHROOMS YOU FIND IN THE FOREST

120 mL to 240 mL olive oil or grapeseed oil
30 g minced shallots
15 g fresh thyme leaves
5 g kosher salt

1. Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel. If the stem is edible, simply trim the ends; otherwise, separate the caps from the stems (they can be used to make a mushroom broth). Cut the caps into 1/2-inch pieces, or confit the caps whole if they look good.
2. Place the mushrooms gill sides up on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with the salt, then set them aside to dry-brine for 30 minutes. If diced, sprinkle the mushroom pieces with the salt and skip the 30-minute rest.
3. Heat 1/2 inch of the oil in a heavy skillet large enough to hold the mushrooms in a single layer, over medium heat. Once the oil starts to shimmer, add the shallots, and let everything cook for several minutes, until translucent. Add the thyme and the mushrooms, gill sides up. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 15 minutes, turning the mushrooms over halfway through.
4. Add enough oil so the mushrooms are fully submerged; cook gently until the oil hits 77 degrees °C on an instant-read thermometer, for about 20 minutes, then remove the skillet from the heat, and let the mushrooms cool in the oil.
5. Pack the mushrooms in a clean glass jar, gently layering each one in the jar, then covering with oil; continue layering and adding oil until all the mushrooms have been packed in the jar. Run a chopstick or a plastic knife along the inside of the jar to release any air bubbles. Make sure the mushrooms are completely submerged in the oil, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use (for up to 2 weeks).

Untraditional side dishes for Thanksgiving

While turkey will always be the main event in a traditional Thanksgiving meal, it's time to show the undercard meals of the dinner, the side dishes, some love. Mashed potatoes and green bean casserole can be had anytime. This year, surprise yourself and your loved ones and with these non-traditional side dishes.

Oyster Dressing "Grand-Mère" - This dish will be a hit if you like your sides spicy, crispy, and salty.

Ingredients

57 g. slab or thick-sliced bacon, diced small
29 g. chopped parsley
5 g. kosher salt
2.5 g. garlic powder
2.5 g. cayenne pepper
5 mL hot sauce
4 dozen shucked oysters plus 1 cup oyster liquor, oysters halved (2 cups)
4 large eggs
2 scallions, minced
2 large garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
2 large baguettes (about 454 g.), diced small (12 cups)
1 stick unsalted butter
1 celery rib, diced small
1/2 green bell pepper, diced small
1/2 small onion, finely diced

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (176°C). Butter a 10-by-14-inch (25.4-by 35.56 cm) shallow baking dish. In a large skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the butter and let melt, then add the celery, green pepper, onion and minced garlic and cook until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the paprika, garlic powder and cayenne and cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Put the diced baguettes in a large bowl. Spoon the bacon mixture on top. Add the oysters and their liquor along with the scallions and parsley.
3. In a small bowl, beat the eggs with the hot sauce and salt. Pour the eggs into the bowl and mix everything together. Scrape the dressing into the prepared baking dish and bake in the upper third of the oven for about 45 minutes, until heated through and crisp on top. Serve hot.
   
   The baked oyster dressing can be refrigerated overnight. Reheat before serving.

Sweet Potato French Fries - You always have them (or wanted to try them) when you're at your favourite burger bistro - for that reason alone these should be served as a side dish this Thanksgiving.

Ingredients

3 medium-sized sweet potatoes
15 g. sugar
15 g. salt
15 g. 5-spice powder
60 mL vegetable oil

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F degrees (232°C). Peel and slice the sweet potatoes into matchstick-sized pieces; the skinnier you make them, the crisper they’re going to be.
2. Mix your spices in a large bowl. Pour oil over the spice blend and combine well. Throw in your potatoes and toss until they’re completely covered.
3. Lay them out out in a single layer on a cookie sheet; use two sheets if they’re looking crowded. Place them in the hot oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Take them out at the fifteen minute mark and turn them over with tongs or a spatula.

Roasted Acorn Squash - If you must have a vegetable side dish on your table, give your potatoes the day off and try this instead.

Ingredients

2 acorn or dumpling squash, about 454 g. each
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
226 g. crushed vanilla wafers, almond biscotti, or pignoli cookies
125 g. brown sugar
45 mL tablespoons amaretto
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
extra-virgin olive oil, optional
8 fresh sage leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Split the squash in half down the middle and scrape out the seeds with a spoon. Set the squash halves, cut sides up, on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, if desired. If the squash are very large, cut lengthwise into quarters. 
3. In a bowl, cream the butter with the sugar, and the amaretto. With a brush or a spoon, coat the cut sides of each squash half with the butter mixture and put two sage leaves on top of each. Sprinkle with the crushed cookies. Bake until tender, 30 to 35 minutes, basting every 15 minutes with any remaining butter.

Mushroom Fried Rice - This side dish works with either leftover rice from last night's takeout, or from a previous dinner - good fried rice starts with cold cooked grains.

Ingredients

300 g. long-grain rice
230 g. cremini mushrooms, sliced thin
230 g. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps sliced
230 g. white mushrooms, sliced thin
75 g. frozen peas
45 g. cooking oil
15 g. grated fresh ginger
2.5 g. teaspoon salt
1 g. dried red-pepper flakes
56.25 mL soy sauce
5 mL Asian sesame oil
6 scallions including green tops, sliced thin

1. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in the rice and boil until just done, about 10 minutes. Drain the rice and set aside to cool.
2. In a large nonstick frying pan or wok, heat 1 tablespoon of the cooking oil over moderately high heat. Add half the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are tender and golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining mushrooms and another tablespoon of the cooking oil. Add these mushrooms to the plate.
3. In the same frying pan, heat the remaining tablespoon of cooking oil over moderate heat. Add the red-pepper flakes, ginger, and scallions and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Increase the heat to moderately high and add the rice, salt, and soy sauce. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes and then add the peas and mushrooms. Cook, stirring, until everything's warm, another 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the sesame oil.