What’s in Season: Watermelon Pico de Gallo

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local businesses and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you; or try a new recipe using produce you can be certain of its freshness and quality. The featured ingredient for this long overdue entry is watermelon. Watermelon has a three-month window of availability in this province, from July through September. Though technically classified as part of a botanical family of gourds that includes vegetables such as cucumber, squash, and pumpkin, watermelon has always been considered a fruit. 92 percent water, every part of a watermelon can be eaten, as the rinds can be stir-fried, stewed, or pickled, and the seeds can be dried and roasted like you would pumpkin seeds. The sweet red flesh makes a great substitute for tomatoes in the pico de gallo recipe below.

Ingredients

610 g watermelon, finely chopped
305 g cucumber, finely chopped
75 g red onion, finely chopped
40 g fresh cilantro, finely chopped
60 mL fresh lime juice
15 g honey
10 g lime zest, finely grated
2 g salt
1 jalapeño, seeded and diced
feta cheese, crumbled (optional)

1. Toss watermelon with the cucumber, onion, cilantro and jalapeno.
2. Whisk lime juice with the zest, honey and salt. Stir into the watermelon mixture.
3. Chill for 30 minutes. Serve with tortilla chips; for an additional burst of flavour, add the feta.
   
   Serves: 12

What’s in Season: Garlic Aioli

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you, or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. In the last of this series for the year, this month's featured ingredient is garlic. Related to the onion, garlic is a popular seasoning around the world and is known for its pungent, spicy flavour that mellows and sweetens considerably with cooking. In spite of its habit of giving eaters of it bad breath (this is due to allyl methyl sulfide, a volatile liquid that is absorbed into the blood during the metabolism of garlic-derived sulfur compounds; from the blood it travels to the lungs, and from there to the mouth, causing bad breath), garlic can be found in a variety of classic dishes, such as garlic bread, garlic toast, bruschetta, crostini and canapé. It also makes the delicious emulsion that is garlic aioli, a dipping sauce that is great on roasted chicken, grilled fish, steamed vegetables, potatoes, or on anything you would put flavoured mayonnaise on. Once you make this recipe for it from one of my favourite cookbooks, you won't be able to eat foods without it.

Ingredients:

180 mL grapeseed oil
120 mL light olive oil (extra virgin olive oil can be used, but it's known to give a metallic taste when blended at high speed)
15 g  Dijon mustard
3 g  kosher salt
2 garlic cloves (minced if you don't have an immersion blender)
1 large egg yolk
juice from one lemon half (about 45 mL)
cayenne pepper to taste

There are two ways to make this recipe:

• Traditional
  Blend all the ingredients together except for the oils. Slowly drip each oil in while whisking them into the other ingredients either by hand or with an immersion blender.  
• Quick and Dirty (works more often than not)
  Blend everything until it gets a dipping sauce-like consistency.

Whatever way it's made, this sauce is good for 5 days refrigerated.

Garlic aioli

What’s in Season: Pumpkin Soup

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you, or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. This month's featured ingredient is everyone's favourite gourd the pumpkin. More than a Halloween decoration and a pie filling, pumpkins can be boiled, steamed, or roasted, and are an excellent source of beta-carotene. When used as a base for a soup, pumpkin adds a savoury smoothness that will warm you up on these chilly fall evenings, making this recipe a perfect meal to have before or after trick-or-treating.

Ingredients:

1 sugar pumpkin
1.4 L chicken stock
120 mL heavy whipping cream
7.5 g salt
5 g chopped fresh parsley
150 g chopped onion
2.5 g chopped fresh thyme
1 clove garlic, minced
5 whole black peppercorn

1.  Preheat the oven to 165 °C. Cut the pumpkin in half from stem to base, then remove the pulp and the seeds (save and roast them for a bonus treat). Cover each half with foil, and bake in the oven, foil side up, for one hour, or until they are tender.
2.  Scrape the pumpkin meat from the shell halves and puree it in a blender. Strain everything to remove any remaining stringy pieces, and set aside 4 cups worth of the puree. The rest can be stored in the freezer in freezer safe bags.
3.  On the stove, heat the chicken stock, pumpkin puree, onion, thyme, garlic, salt, and peppercorns to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes uncovered.
4.  Puree the soup in small batches using a food processor or blender. Return everything to the saucepan, and again bring the soup to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, then simmer uncovered for another 30 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream, then pour into soup bowls and garnish with fresh parsley.

What’s in Season: Apple Butter

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you, or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. This month's featured ingredient is the teacher's favourite the apple. Around since prehistoric times, apples are grown all around the world and have been cultivated for over 3000 years. There are 15 different main varieties of apples are grown in Ontario, with the McIntosh, Gala, Empire, Red Delicious, and Northern Spy varieties the most popular. If you're planning an apple-picking trip in the near future, a great recipe to try is for apple butter, a cooked-down version of applesauce that is sweeter and richer in flavour. Great on toast, pancakes or fruit parfaits, apple butter can be also used as a fat substitute in reduced-fat or fat-free cooking, as well as in vegan recipes.

Ingredients:

1 kg Ontario apples peeled, cored and diced in 5 mm pieces
175 g granulated sugar
2.5 g cinnamon
125 mL apple cider
30 mL apple cider vinegar

1. Combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and place over medium-low heat.
2. Cook uncovered until the apples are very tender and have darkened, occasionally giving everything a stir. After about 60 to 70 minutes, remove the mixture from the stove and let it cool.
3. Puree everything using either a blender or an immersion blender. Pour the apple butter into a clean container, cover and chill in your refrigerator, it should be good for up to two weeks.

What’s in Season: Esquites – Mexican Street Corn Salad

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you; or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. This month's featured ingredient is the diet staple around the world that is corn. Central to Mexican cuisine, corn appears in almost every dish. This adaption of this easy to made corn salad recipe is based on the Mexican street food recipe esquites, enhancing the grain's natural sweetness some creamy, cheesy goodness, along with a little bit of heat. If you feel the need to hire an authentic Mexican to make this for you in order to enjoy it, do whatever you have to do to make yourself comfortable, but please do not bring your cultural appropriation guilt here.

Ingredients:

Kernels from 4-5 ears of corn (3 cups of frozen corn can also be used)
60 g feta (cotija or ricotta salata cheese if possible), finely crumbled
60 g cilantro, minced
30 g  mayonnaise
5 g ancho chili powder
30 mL of a neutral cooking oil (I used canola)
15 mL fresh lime juice (about ½ a lime)
1 clove of garlic, pressed
1 small or ½ 1 large jalapeno, minced

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the corn and a pinch of salt, and leave it alone for two to three minutes, allowing the corn to char. Toss, stir and repeat until charred on all sides for about eight to ten minutes in total. 
2. Transfer the corn to a large mixing bowl. Add the remaining ingredients to the corn, and stir until everything has been blended together. Salt to taste, and serve immediately as either a side dish or on its own.
   
   Note: The corn can be cooked up to a day in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Bring the corn to room temperature for about 15 minutes before you assemble the salad.
   
   Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Esquites – Mexican Street Corn Salad

What’s in Season: Tomato-Bacon Jam With Onions and Garlic

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you, or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. This month's featured ingredient is everyone's favourite culinary vegetable, the tomato. Originating in Central and South America, tomatoes can be eaten may ways, including raw, as an ingredient in many dishes, sauces, salads, and drinks. This month's recipe makes excellent use of the tomato's natural umami flavour, and can be used on grilled cheese, crackers, or anything you would put ketchup on (as long as it's not a well-done steak).

Ingredients:

230 g thick-cut bacon, chopped
15 g brown sugar
2.5 g freshly ground black pepper
1.25 g teaspoon crushed red pepper
120 mL fresh ripe diced tomatoes
120 mL pure maple syrup
60 mL balsamic vinegar
30 mL Dijon mustard
15 mL Worcestershire sauce
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf

1. Cook the bacon over medium heat for about 5 minutes until browned. Add the onions and garlic and cook them until they are translucent and softened, stirring everything for 5 to 7 minutes. Drain any excess bacon grease from the pan.
2. Stir in remaining ingredients and reduce heat to low. Simmer for about 1 hour uncovered, stirring occasionally, until reduced and thickened to a jam-like consistency. Discard bay leaf afterwards.
3. Transfer everything to a blender and pulse to combine, leaving some chunks. Use immediately, or store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

What’s in Season: Teriyaki Steak and Berries

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you; or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. Inspired by a recent trip with my son's class to Proulx Sugar Bush and Berry Farm,  this month's featured ingredient is the strawberry.  A member of the rose family, strawberries are a great source of vitamin C, fibre, and potassium, and are best when picked ripe. Though usually made into preserves and desserts, strawberries can be found in salads during the summer, as a great way to highlight the burst of colour and flavour that can add to foods. If you're looking for a light summer dish, you can't go wrong with the recipe below.

Ingredients:

4 cups torn spinach leaves
4 cups torn romaine leaves
3 cups halved strawberries
2 cups sliced white button mushrooms
375 g top sirloin grilling steak, about 1 cm thick
45 mL seasoned rice vinegar (4% acidity)
45 mL canola oil
25 mL teriyaki sauce
20 g toasted sesame seeds
10 mL finely minced gingerroot
10 mL honey
2 green onions, diagonally sliced
fresh ground black pepper

1. In small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the rice vinegar, canola oil, teriyaki sauce, ginger, honey and pepper to taste. Set aside.
2. Sprinkle both sides of steak with pepper to taste. Place on greased grill over medium-high heat; close lid and grill for about 4 minutes per side for medium-rare or until desired doneness. Remove to a cutting board and let the meat stand for 5 minutes before thinly slicing across the grain.
3. In large bowl, combine the spinach, romaine, strawberries, mushrooms and green onions. Set aside about 25 mL of dressing, and toss the salad with the remaining dressing. Arrange the salad on either a platter or on salad plates; top with the beef, and drizzle everything with the reserved dressing and a sprinkling of the sesame seeds.

What’s in Season: Mushroom Confit

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you, or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. This month's fresh ingredient is everyone's favourite fungus, the mushroom.

Available year-round, mushrooms are a good source of vitamin D and are one of the more versatile ingredients around. A great way to use them is in a confit, a preservation method that slow-poaches the mushrooms in oil, intensifying their flavour. Then they can be added to omelets; macaroni and cheese; used as pizza toppings; tucked under the skin of a roast chicken, or anywhere else you can think of that needs an umami boost.

Ingredients:

680 g mushrooms, all the same type or assorted

NOTE: Unless you are an experienced mycologist, DO NOT USE ANY MUSHROOMS YOU FIND IN THE FOREST

120 mL to 240 mL olive oil or grapeseed oil
30 g minced shallots
15 g fresh thyme leaves
5 g kosher salt

1. Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel. If the stem is edible, simply trim the ends; otherwise, separate the caps from the stems (they can be used to make a mushroom broth). Cut the caps into 1/2-inch pieces, or confit the caps whole if they look good.
2. Place the mushrooms gill sides up on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with the salt, then set them aside to dry-brine for 30 minutes. If diced, sprinkle the mushroom pieces with the salt and skip the 30-minute rest.
3. Heat 1/2 inch of the oil in a heavy skillet large enough to hold the mushrooms in a single layer, over medium heat. Once the oil starts to shimmer, add the shallots, and let everything cook for several minutes, until translucent. Add the thyme and the mushrooms, gill sides up. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 15 minutes, turning the mushrooms over halfway through.
4. Add enough oil so the mushrooms are fully submerged; cook gently until the oil hits 77 degrees °C on an instant-read thermometer, for about 20 minutes, then remove the skillet from the heat, and let the mushrooms cool in the oil.
5. Pack the mushrooms in a clean glass jar, gently layering each one in the jar, then covering with oil; continue layering and adding oil until all the mushrooms have been packed in the jar. Run a chopstick or a plastic knife along the inside of the jar to release any air bubbles. Make sure the mushrooms are completely submerged in the oil, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use (for up to 2 weeks).

What’s in Season: Asparagus with Almonds

You don't have to love fruits and vegetables to take advantage of the local farmer's market. Do it to support local business and our farmers; do it if reducing your carbon footprint is a concern to you; or do it to try a new recipe using produce you can certain of its freshness and quality. This month's fresh ingredient is asparagus, a vegetable I've talked about in a previous post. It works as a side dish to almost any main course, and best of all, it's easy to make.

Ingredients

450 g asparagus, washed with the hard fibrous parts of the stems broken off
30 g chopped almonds
14 g butter
salt
pepper
cayenne pepper (optional)

1.  Melt the butter over medium heat in a pan large enough to hold all the asparagus.  Once the butter has melted, cook the almonds in the butter until the butter and almonds have browned (if you want to spice things up a notch, this is where you would add the cayenne).
2.  Add the asparagus to the pan. Season them with salt and pepper, then move the asparagus around with a large silicone spatula or a wooden spoon, scooping the butter and almonds up on top to coat them. The asparagus can then be cooked in the pan as long as you keep the asparagus spears moving, about 6 to 8 minutes. The asparagus should be crisp but without a raw taste.
   
   Alternative method: Steam the asparagus for two minutes, then sauté them in the almond/butter mixture.