Q & A with Maverick's Donut Company

Maverick’s Donut Company came about through a collaboration between the partners of two well-known local restaurants, and has made doughnut lovers in Ottawa stand up and take notice.   I had a chance to ask them some questions to Dominic Santaguida, the owner of the business, via e-mail recently, and here's what he had to say, as dictated through his partner Stacey:

FRANKLIN on FOOD: Is it the pastry or the toppings that makes the perfect doughnut?
STACEY SANTAGUIDA: That is of a personal choice, some people like plain donuts, and others like them all dressed up.

FRANKLIN on FOOD: What is it that makes Maverick’s stand out from the other specialty bakers in Ottawa?
SS: First, we are simply a donut shop. we serve beverages, but only donuts, no pastries etc.

FRANKLIN on FOOD: Was it hard to come up with the ideas for your signature doughnuts?
SS: We tried a few different things but really narrowed in down very quickly to the six we currently have with the plan to expand our signatures to many more.

FRANKLIN on FOOD: What was the creation you thought would be in the sweet six but wasn’t?
SS: A key lime donut, we will bring it back in the summer months to test out its popularity then.

FRANKLIN on FOOD: If you could take over a Tim Hortons for a week, what changes would you make, and why?
SS: We would not like to take over Tim Hortons for a week, as their operations are not at all like ours. We do fresh in house donuts only. No sandwiches, breakfast meals, soups or meal type things. We are strictly donuts and coffees/drinks. We aren't a chain either... Nothing wrong with Tim's, just not the same business.

FRANKLIN on FOOD: Other than doughnuts, what’s your go-to sweet treat to eat?
SS: Actually donuts are one of my most favourite things, but most of all I love apple fritters, which we are in the process of perfecting and getting onto the menu.

The Quick and Dirty Guide to Food Aphrodisiacs

People looking to get lucky on Valentine's Day or any other time of the year inevitably start thinking about aphrodisiacs. While there's no known food or drink that stimulates sexual desire (if there was, wouldn't you be eating more of it already?), we do know that certain foods can trigger chemical reactions in the brain to send a flood of happy hormones through the body, which is just as good. Here are some of the more common and uncommon ones:

Arugula - This spicy plant has always been trendy, as it's been considered an aphrodisiac since the first century A.D. It is rich in vitamins A and C, which are essential for sex hormone production. It also delivers many minerals and antioxidants that are important to put the body in its sexual prime. A good source of zinc (excellent for promoting good blood flow to the nether regions), as well as other sex-aiding minerals like magnesium and potassium, arugula is also said to help clear the mind, so while it won't raise you or your partner's sexual energy, it might put the two of you in the right mindset for romance - something to consider for the next salad you order or make.

Red wine - Alcohol has always helped people get to a warm place of relaxation. Red wine is good for vascular health; good blood flow means better orgasms; better orgasms mean better sex. And it's not like you weren't going to order some with your Valentine's dinner anyway. Just remember to enjoy in moderation.

Asparagus - Is having your pee smell funny worth a vegetable's aphrodisiac effect?  The Vegetarian Society says yes, recommending three straight days of asparagus nibbling for the best effects. This long, fibrous shaft is full of nutrients needed for healthy hormone production (vitamin E), and compounds found in asparagus (steroid glycosides) have been known for their ability to promote sexual hormones. It is also a source of folate, which is important for female reproductive health and for the health of sperm.

Maple syrup - There's another reason to head to the sugar bush this season. A great source of manganese (which fights free radicals and is essential to the health of the reproductive system), maple syrup is also a source of zinc, another element that aids in the blood flow (it's also important in the prevention of prostate cancer), and can give the body that quick fix of energy at a key moment.

Chilli peppers - Beyoncé has hot sauce in her bag for a reason. Hot peppers contain capsaicin, a chemical that gets the blood pumping to increases circulation and stimulate nerve endings. Just be careful where you're dabbing that stuff, as people have gone to the ER because they got carried away literally spicing things up in the bedroom.

Avocado - The name of this fruit comes from the Spanish word aguacate which ironically comes from the proto-Aztecan word for "testicle" due to the likeness between the fruit and the body part. While this does not mean the word "guacamole" translates to mean "testicle sauce", avocados do contain high levels of vitamin E and potassium which can help in maintaining a high energy level for any activities you care to indulge in.

Oysters - Like all foods of the sea, the oyster's aphrodisiac history can be traced back to the ancient Greeks. They believed Aphrodite, goddess of love, was born of the sea and that all ocean creatures retained some of her powers. Any amorous effect is probably more from the zinc the oysters contain, which is key for testosterone production. With their slightly salty/sweet scent so similar to a potent female pheromone, it's no surprise no less of an authority than Casanova himself allegedly consumed 50 of the bivalves each day to keep his libido up. Please note that there have been recent cases of acute gastrointestinal illness linked to oysters, so be mindful of a few bad hombres out there.

Mangoes - You've always wondered after seeing that "Seinfeld" episode, but there is some basis to the aphrodisiac allure of mango. With its juicy, fleshy texture, and natural sweetness, mangoes are good sources of vitamins A, C, and E, the sex vitamin, the key to virility - it moved for a reason.

Chocolate - Dark chocolate has been shown to cause a spike in dopamine, which induces feelings of pleasure. It also contains flavonoids, antioxidants similar to those found in green tea and red wine, and phenylethylamine, which releases a hormone that occurs during sexual intercourse. This may explain why a box of chocolates is the standard Valentine's Day gift, no matter how much of a cliche it has become.

Hemp - The aphrodisiac effects of hemp lay more in the area of cannabis and hashish, but hemp seeds are rich in the Omega-3 fatty acids, useful in improving mood, as well as a good source of vitamin E (aka the sex drug). As a friendly reminder, please remember that any other hemp delivery methods you know of may not be legal yet.

Ginkgo Biloba / Ginseng - People have been fascinated by ginkgo biloba and ginseng for centuries, with both claiming improvements in cognitive abilities and libido; it works on both heads if you will. Ginkgo supposedly increases blood flow to the brain as well as to the nether regions, along with increasing dopamine and adrenaline. Along with being phallic, ginseng root is commonly used as a healing agent to treat fatigue, reduce stress, fight infection and cure impotence. Stamina and quick bursts of energy are useful in any horizontal jogging; your results may vary.

Fish Sauce - Your New Best Friend

I first became aware of fish sauce when I received a bottle of Cock brand fish sauce as a gag housewarming gift several years ago. The name and the smell of the product was too much for my friend to resist not giving to the single man I was at the time, so I laughed, thanked him, and put it under the sink where it stayed for several years until I threw it out. Because I wasn't as savvy about food as I am now, I never used it in anything I cooked. Today, it is something I would consider a pantry staple, as it adds a funky briny flavour to any recipe it is used in. Made from small fish such as anchovies, the fish is packed between layers of salt in either earthenware containers or wooden barrels. Bamboo racks are then placed over the final layer with a weight on top to keep the fish from floating around. The container is then covered with an airtight top and set in a warm spot where it is left to ferment for 12-18 months; the salt used in the process kills any bacteria that could grow during this period. As the fish break down, it produces a brown liquid which is drained from a spigot at the bottom of the container and then bottled as fish sauce. Sweeteners like sugar or fructose are sometimes added, as well flavour enhancers such as MSG, or preservatives, most commonly sodium benzoate. High-end fish sauce is the first liquid to be drained off the fermented fish and is best used in dipping sauces. The less expensive varieties come from secondary drainings (salt water is added and the sauce is collected after a shorter second fermentation period) and can be used for regular everyday use. I like to use fish sauce in marinades and hamburger and meatloaf mixes, or whenever I see a recipe that requires soy sauce. As the taste and smell can be quite pungent, it's best to use it like Grandpa did with his Brylcreem - a little dab'll do ya. Use it as a way to add a savoury note to your favourite recipes - if you're still as skeptical as I was all those years ago, try this recipe, and be wowed by the results.

Ingredients - Braised Lamb Shank with Fish Sauce

4 454 g lamb shanks, fat and silver skin trimmed
230 g baby carrots, scrubbed or 230 g larger carrots cut into smaller pieces
220 g cilantro, Thai or sweet basil, and/or celery leaves, divided
30 g finely chopped cilantro stems
950 mL chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
120 mL fish sauce divided (plus more for serving, optional)
60 mL vegetable oil
12 garlic cloves, 6 smashed, 6 finely chopped
6 dried bird chiles
5 medium-sized shallots, thinly sliced
4 kaffir lime leaves (lime zest can be used as a substitute)
2 bay leaves
2 large fennel bulbs, quartered

1. Place the smashed garlic in a resealable plastic bag along with the lamb shanks and half (60 mL) the fish sauce. Seal the bag, pressing out the air, and give it a good shake to coat the meat. Place it in the refrigerator for at least four hours and up to one day.
2. Remove from the fridge and let the lamb sit at room temperature for an hour. Preheat the oven to 150 °C. Heat the vegetable oil in either a large Dutch oven or a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Take the shanks out of the bag (discard the marinade) and add them to the pot. Cook the lamb for 14-18 minutes, turning occasionally until they are browned evenly on all sides.
3. Transfer the meat to a large plate. Reduce the heat on the pot to medium, and cook the shallots, cilantro stems, and chopped garlic, stirring often and scraping up the browned bits from the bottom, until the shallots are golden, about 5-7 minutes. Add the chillies, lime leaves, bay leaves, chicken stock/broth, and the remaining fish sauce, all while stirring and scraping up from the bottom of the pot.
4. Bring everything to a simmer,  return the lamb to the pot, and cover the pot with a lid. Transfer the pot to the oven, and braise the meat until it pulling away from the bones, but not quite fork-tender, about 50 minutes to an hour. Turn the shanks and the fennel and carrot, submerging them in the liquid. Cover and continue braising the minute for 40 to 50 more minutes.
5. Let the shanks rest for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Serve with the fennel and carrots, and some of the braising liquid. Top with cilantro, basil and/or celery leaves, and seasoned with a few drops fish sauce if desired.

DIY Cinnamon Whiskey

Greetings and salutations everyone. Hope your 2016 ended well, and that your 2017 has started right.

This year is the 150th anniversary of Confederation, and with these cold winter nights and Winterlude ahead of us, a great way to kick off the celebrations is with a hot toddy flavoured with Fireball Cinnamon Whisky. While most people have done shots of this cinnamon-flavoured liqueur, few know about its Canadian origins. Originally part of Seagram's line of flavored schnapps in the mid-1980s, it was called Dr. McGillicuddy’s Fireball Cinnamon Whisky, and was only made in Canada. As the schnapps fad started to fade, Seagram's sold off its entire McGillicuddy portfolio to the Sazerac Company, who decided to spin the cinnamon whiskey off from the others in 2007 and marketed it to college party towns, making it the hit that it is today. With the stores already filled with cinnamon hearts for Valentine's Day for sale, it's worth it for Fireball fans to give the recipe for this homemade version a try:

Ingredients

750 mL whiskey (the cheaper the better)
220 g cinnamon hearts (or some other hard cinnamon-flavoured candy)

1. Pour the whiskey into a suitably sized resealable container. Add the cinnamon candy, seal well and give the whole thing a good shake.
2. Let the mixture sit overnight to allow the candies dissolve and infuse the liquor. Strain out any remaining candy and rebottle.

Ingredients - Cinnamon Hot Toddy

1 shot whiskey
60 mL boiling water
5 mL honey
3 whole cloves
2.5 g ground nutmeg
1 cinnamon stick

1. Pour the honey, boiling water, and the cinnamon whiskey into a mug. Spice it with the cloves and cinnamon. 
2. Let the mixture stand five minutes to let the flavours mingle, then sprinkle with the nutmeg before serving.

Q & A with OCCO Kitchen's Marc Steele

With both a take-out restaurant (OCCO Kitchen) and a sit-down restaurant (OCCO Kitchen Innes) to maintain, chef Mark Steele has become a major player in the Ottawa food scene. Hailing from the east coast, Mark's career includes being the Chef de Cuisine at the Chateau Laurier; the Executive Chef for the Ottawa Hilton, and the Ottawa Marriott hotels; and a teaching position at Algonquin College for the School of Hospitality and Tourism. He has also led a team of chefs representing Ottawa's regional cuisine at the coveted James Beard Foundation in Manhattan; executed state dinners for British Royalty and the President of France; and competed on "Chopped Canada". I had a chance to ask him some questions via e-mail recently, and here's what he had to say:

FRANKLIN on FOOD: What needs to be done to make the Ottawa cooking scene stand out more?
MARK STEELE: I think to help Ottawa stand out we really need to Showcase our local talented Artisans from beer to spirit producers to local cheeses and charcuterie and use those products to create our own dishes that really showcase the region and what it has to offer.

FoF: Why don't more restaurateurs consider the suburbs as a location for their restaurants?
MS: There are definitely some obstacles for restaurants in suburbia that include you really have to be a destination restaurant and have a draw for people to come to you. Staffing can be a real issue.

If your restaurant is centrally located you can draw from a wider area of Ottawa. I personally love Orleans it has its own culture and food scene that I like to think I'm helping develop, its very own Craft brewery (Stray Dog) that has just started their first batches.

FoF: How do you split the time between your two restaurants?

MS: Most of my time is spent at the bigger location, but now it has really found its legs and Ricci Binch our new Chef from Australia is taking the reigns and I'm looking forward to working the take out again like the good ol' days.

FoF: Other than your own places, where would you go for a sit-down meal in either Orleans or Ottawa?

MS: There are many restaurants I enjoy going to and very hard to narrow it down to one but overall I really appreciate when I order a meal and there is passion and craft that has been put into the preparation. 

FoF: What's the one ingredient that you will always find in your kitchens, and why?
MS: The one ingredient you will always find in my kitchen is Mt Scio Savoury from Newfoundland. It is a nostalgic ingredient for me one I was raised with. It is a very unique form of summer savoury that I use in my stuffing and in some herb blends that I use.

FoF: What advice would you give to anyone who wants to become a chef?
MS: Advice I would give anyone who would want to become a Chef would be that you have to love it and love the lifestyle. It can be very long hours, very physically demanding and high stress. Your busiest time is usually when the rest of the world is off having fun, weekends and special occasions are going to be when you have to put in the most work, if your OK with this and your not afraid of hard work and you thrive to create interesting artistic and inventive food that will completely overwhelm your guests then you will never find a more rewarding profession.

FoF: What was the most surprising thing about being on "Chopped Canada"

MS: The most surprising element of Chopped was definitely receiving a baked potato for the dessert round. In hindsight, I can think of a hundred thousand ideas that I could create with it but in that moment when the pressures on it really through me for a loop.

FoF: I remember you said you like to roll around in the prize money if you had won "Chopped Canada:; have you had a chance to make it rain with some $5 bills recently?

MS: Yes I was planning on doing the backstroke through a pool of fives that being said I'm doing OK. I couldn't be happier with the success of OCCO and I'm in planning of the next move.

Cookies For the Naughty and the Nice

According to my wife, we are in the midst of the cookie-baking party season. In honour of this tasty occasion, I have posted two recipes, one for those who take their baked goods creating seriously, and one for those who wish to speed along to the wine drinking/socializing part of the get-together.

Nice: Vanilla-Almond Sugar Cookies
(recipe found on Bake at 350)

Ingredients

360 g unbleached, all-purpose flour
200 g sugar
10 g baking powder
4 mL vanilla extract
2.5 mL pure almond extract
2 sticks salted butter, cold and cut into chunks
1 egg

1. Preheat oven to 177 °C. Combine the flour and baking powder, set aside. 
2. Cream the sugar and butter. Add the egg and extracts and mix. Gradually add the flour mixture and beat just until combined, scraping down the bowl, especially the bottom. The dough will be crumbly, so knead it together with your hands as you scoop it out of the bowl for rolling.
3. Roll on a floured surface to about 1/4" to 3/8" thick, and cut into shapes. Place on parchment-lined baking sheets (freezing the cut out shape on the baking sheet for 5 minutes before baking is recommended) and bake for 10-12 minutes. Let sit a few minutes on the sheet, then transfer to a cooling rack.
   
   Note: Click the following link if you want a great recipe to make icing from scratch.

Naughty: Drunken Oreos
(recipe found on Foodbeast)

Ingredients

2 packages Jell-O Oreo Cookies 'n Creme pudding mix
1 package of Oreo cookies
milk
vodka

1. Take the pudding mix, the milk, and a mixing bowl and follow the instructions on the box.
2. Add 180 mL (approx. 4 shots) of vodka to the pudding mix. Whisk it in well, and place the bowl in the fridge to allow it to chill.
3. Place the Oreo cookies on a baking sheet, then unscrew them, and remove the frosting. Rebuild the cookie using the pudding as the new filling. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve. 

Q & A with "Ottawa Eats" host Tom Shock

Tom Shock has worn a lot of different hats over the course of his career. He has been a radio personality (most recently on Boom 99.7) for several years, and when he isn't being a photographer with a focus on portrait, travel, scenic and abstract photography, he's writing, directing, editing, producing or hosting various programs on Rogers community television. One of those shows is "Ottawa Eats", a show that focuses on restaurants in and around the Ottawa area. I had a chance to ask him some questions via e-mail recently, and here's what he had to say:

FRANKLIN on FOOD: How did "Ottawa Eats" come about and how did you get involved in it?

TOM SHOCK: Ottawa Eats was a show that was created by Gavin Lumsden at Rogers TV.  I was hosting the "Ottawa 67's Show" on Rogers TV at the time and it wasn't going to be renewed in the fall.  Gavin has always been a big supporter of mine and he thought my sense of humour and quick thinking would be a good fit in the kitchen with chefs.  

We wanted to showcase the expanding Ottawa food scene and really shine a light on the wonderful, creative people behind these restaurants, food trucks and diners.   There wasn't a show that was doing that locally and the timing was excellent. 

FoF: Are you surprised by the popularity of cooking shows nowadays?

TS: Not really.  I think there is something incredibly wholesome and deeply emotional about food.  There is no greater human gesture than to share a plate of food with a friend, family member or stranger.  Food is what brings us together, both at the dinner table and in our communities.  I think people are more open to different types of ingredients and styles of cooking than ever before.  

I also think food and cooking gives us a welcome distraction from our busy lives.  I think it grounds us.  The most important thing any family can do today is to sit down an enjoy a meal together. 

FoF: How easy is it to get the featured chefs to show their personalities on camera?

TS: It's not that difficult.  They are all unique personalities and each one has a certain style.  Some are more vocal.  Some are incredibly clever.  Some are very simple and straight forward.  But each and every single one of them is incredibly dedicated to their craft.   

When I am open and honest about my shortcomings in the kitchen and I make it clear that I'm eager to learn, they become engaged.  We are simply two people sharing ideas and talking about something we both love; food.  When you get a couple of people in a kitchen, talking about food, funny is bound to happen.   And besides, all the best moments at a party happen in the kitchen.  We just prove it with Ottawa Eats.

FoF: What's the funniest thing to happen during a show taping?

TS: There have been many moments.  Most of them usually involve me getting in the way, dropping something or completely messing up.  At the central Bierhaus, I tried to make one of their pretzels.  That didn't go very well.  I managed to hit myself in the face with the dough.  I also made the mistake of eating something fresh out of the fryer at Ginza Ramen on Somerset.  Couldn't taste anything for a few days after that.  I also found out how incredibly uncoordinated I am at the Baroness Chocolate factory.  Tying to work the packaging conveyer belt is incredibly difficult and I completely lack the motor skills to keep up with it.  I wasted much chocolate that day... Sorry. 

FoF: Do you consider yourself a foodie?

TS: No.  I just love food.  I grew up on a farm and we always grew our own food and benefited from the animals that we raised.  My mother insisted on teaching me how to cook and I loved seeing how something could go from a seed to the plate in such a short time.  

I think there is great power in food.  It has the ability to change how we think, how we feel, our environment, our economy and our society as a whole.  

I have great respect for those that both grow and create our food.  I would never disrespect what they do by calling myself an expert on food or a foodie.  

I just love food.

FoF: Can you tell me more about your Mouth to Mouth project? 

TS: Mouth to Mouth is essentially an open research project into local food.  After having spent so much time in kitchens with chefs, I started asking questions about what ingredients ended up on my dinner plate.  Where does it come from?  What does it do to my physical and mental state?  How does it impact the environment, the economy and my community.  I didn't like some of the answers that I got and when I was really honest about it, I was at fault.  I'm a pretty ordinary guy so I thought if I was asking these questions and the answers I got where unsatisfactory, then there must be a solution out there.  

I started doing research on our food chain, which is really just a giant factory and warehouse, and found that there are a lot of local options.  I also found that we have been programmed to expect certain things and "need" certain qualities in our food that are out of line with what nature can sustainably provide.  A more thoughtful explanation of my reasoning is here: 

http://tomshockinc.com/mouth-to-mouth/2016/10/14/the-beginning

What I would like to achieve with this project is to open the dialogue on local food and eventually film a documentary on local food.  Selfishly, I just want to eat better, feel better, help my local economy and neighbours and improve the environment we live in.  I believe this can all be achieved just by changing what we put on our plate. 

FoF: How did your experiment of eating normally for a month versus eating locally for a month go?

TS:  Eating locally was surprisingly easy, especially in the growing seasons.  I've found it more difficult in the colder months but that's only because I'm like many people in that I believe I should be able to eat whatever I want, whenever I want.  The battle is much more mental than one of actual availability.  There are some other changes that will take more time in order to really eat 100% local 365 days a year.  Most of it having to do with learning some "old world" skills on how to store and preserve food for the winter months.  

When I went back to eating "normally" I found it very difficult.  I knew what was in the food, how processed it is and how different it tastes.  It was shocking.  I was also shocked to find out how addictive certain foods were that were so readily available.  I aim to do this experiment again in the new year with a few volunteers. 

FoF: Favourite local restaurant and why?

TS: Wow.  What a tough question.   My favourite place is Two Six Ate on Preston Street.   There are a few reasons.  I admire the way the owners threw caution to the wind and dove head first into the business.  From the very early days, they were driven to make unique food from local, fresh ingredients.  They put a new spin on traditional dishes like their unbelievable grilled peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.   They are simple but never boring as their menu is constantly evolving.  The atmosphere is cozy, unique and artistic.  It's a place that inspires, comforts and satisfies.  They do so many things well, I have a hard time staying away.  It also happens to be where I had my first date with my wife so it will always have a special place in my heart. 

FoF: Do you have a favourite dish you like to make at home

TS: I really love to use fire to cook and I'm always trying to find a new way to use the same old ingredients.  Cooking is so much fun and I really enjoy it.  However, my favourite dish is very simple.  I was born in Switzerland and my favourite meal is still rosti.  It's something I had quite a bit of growing up and I still love it today.  To make it takes no time at all.   Whole boiled potatoes, then grated.  Diced onions.  Diced bacon.  Fry the onions and bacon together until lightly browned and then throw in the grated potatoes.  Fry it until it's a golden brown on either side.  You can add cheese if you like... but NO KETCHUP!   That's just my rule... sorry.

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"Ottawa Eats" is on Rogers 22 at 3:30 PM and 7:00 PM  on Thursdays, and at 8:00 PM on Sundays.