Fish Sauce - Your New Best Friend

I first became aware of fish sauce when I received a bottle of Cock brand fish sauce as a gag housewarming gift several years ago. The name and the smell of the product was too much for my friend to resist not giving to the single man I was at the time, so I laughed, thanked him, and put it under the sink where it stayed for several years until I threw it out. Because I wasn't as savvy about food as I am now, I never used it in anything I cooked. Today, it is something I would consider a pantry staple, as it adds a funky briny flavour to any recipe it is used in. Made from small fish such as anchovies, the fish is packed between layers of salt in either earthenware containers or wooden barrels. Bamboo racks are then placed over the final layer with a weight on top to keep the fish from floating around. The container is then covered with an airtight top and set in a warm spot where it is left to ferment for 12-18 months; the salt used in the process kills any bacteria that could grow during this period. As the fish break down, it produces a brown liquid which is drained from a spigot at the bottom of the container and then bottled as fish sauce. Sweeteners like sugar or fructose are sometimes added, as well flavour enhancers such as MSG, or preservatives, most commonly sodium benzoate. High-end fish sauce is the first liquid to be drained off the fermented fish and is best used in dipping sauces. The less expensive varieties come from secondary drainings (salt water is added and the sauce is collected after a shorter second fermentation period) and can be used for regular everyday use. I like to use fish sauce in marinades and hamburger and meatloaf mixes, or whenever I see a recipe that requires soy sauce. As the taste and smell can be quite pungent, it's best to use it like Grandpa did with his Brylcreem - a little dab'll do ya. Use it as a way to add a savoury note to your favourite recipes - if you're still as skeptical as I was all those years ago, try this recipe, and be wowed by the results.

Ingredients - Braised Lamb Shank with Fish Sauce

4 454 g lamb shanks, fat and silver skin trimmed
230 g baby carrots, scrubbed or 230 g larger carrots cut into smaller pieces
220 g cilantro, Thai or sweet basil, and/or celery leaves, divided
30 g finely chopped cilantro stems
950 mL chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
120 mL fish sauce divided (plus more for serving, optional)
60 mL vegetable oil
12 garlic cloves, 6 smashed, 6 finely chopped
6 dried bird chiles
5 medium-sized shallots, thinly sliced
4 kaffir lime leaves (lime zest can be used as a substitute)
2 bay leaves
2 large fennel bulbs, quartered

1. Place the smashed garlic in a resealable plastic bag along with the lamb shanks and half (60 mL) the fish sauce. Seal the bag, pressing out the air, and give it a good shake to coat the meat. Place it in the refrigerator for at least four hours and up to one day.
2. Remove from the fridge and let the lamb sit at room temperature for an hour. Preheat the oven to 150 °C. Heat the vegetable oil in either a large Dutch oven or a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Take the shanks out of the bag (discard the marinade) and add them to the pot. Cook the lamb for 14-18 minutes, turning occasionally until they are browned evenly on all sides.
3. Transfer the meat to a large plate. Reduce the heat on the pot to medium, and cook the shallots, cilantro stems, and chopped garlic, stirring often and scraping up the browned bits from the bottom, until the shallots are golden, about 5-7 minutes. Add the chillies, lime leaves, bay leaves, chicken stock/broth, and the remaining fish sauce, all while stirring and scraping up from the bottom of the pot.
4. Bring everything to a simmer,  return the lamb to the pot, and cover the pot with a lid. Transfer the pot to the oven, and braise the meat until it pulling away from the bones, but not quite fork-tender, about 50 minutes to an hour. Turn the shanks and the fennel and carrot, submerging them in the liquid. Cover and continue braising the minute for 40 to 50 more minutes.
5. Let the shanks rest for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Serve with the fennel and carrots, and some of the braising liquid. Top with cilantro, basil and/or celery leaves, and seasoned with a few drops fish sauce if desired.